DAY TRIP: Northern Wales
Heading towards Snowdonia
From Liverpool, we took a day trip through Northern Wales, via The Busy Bus, and it was one of the best decisions we could have made.
Northern Wales is an outdoor-lover’s paradise with mountains, waterfalls, cliffs plunging into the sea, lots of sheep, and quaint towns. Blackbeard and I could have spent a week exploring just this part of the country, alone.
Below is an in-depth overview of our tour, which we highly recommend booking! We’ve also included the best places to stay, as well as dine and drink, in case you’re ready to plan your own multi-day tour!
NOTE: This is a highlights tour and a very long day. It is not recommended for young children!
Stops on our tour
Lllandudno - A Victorian-era beach town
Llandudno & The Great Orme
Llandudno was the first stop on our Northern Wales tour. We learned that in 1848, Owen Williams, an architect and surveyor from Liverpool, presented Lord Mostyn with plans to develop the marshlands behind Llandudno Bay as a holiday resort. These were enthusiastically pursued by Lord Mostyn. The influence of the Mostyn Estate and its agents over the years were paramount in the development of Llandudno, especially after the appointment of George Felton as surveyor and architect in 1857. So, between 1857 and 1877, much of central Llandudno was developed under Felton's supervision. Since 1862, it started to become a popular beach resort town that many frequented as a respite from the city heat. However, during the Victorian era, the roads on the Great Orme were still fairly primitive and the steep slopes prevented all but the most sure-footed from reaching the summit. Llandudno was fast becoming a very popular tourist resort, so it wasn’t long before local businessmen latched on to the idea of a cable tramway. So, a little over 15 months after construction work started at the bottom of the Orme, the line was declared safe by the Board of Trade. On July 31, 1902, the first car moved off from Victoria Station, to the sound of the town band playing “God save the King”.
WHAT TO SEE
Alice in Wonderland Town Trail
In 1861, eight year-old Alice Pleasance Liddell spent the first of many summer holidays in Llandudno. The Liddells were close family friends with Charles Dodgson (Lewis Carroll) - a mathematician, poet, and author, who most notably wrote “Alice in Wonderland”, based on the Liddell’s daughter. As a tribute to the birth (and success) of this book, Prime Minister David Lloyd George unveiled an iconic White Rabbit statue in 1933, which eventually became a trail of iconic figures from the story. We decided to start walking the trail (bypassing the locked gate) and then realized why it was blocked off - it hadn’t been restored. Virtually all of the figures were weathered and/or falling over.
Construction began in 1900, which when completed, was the largest hotel at the time. Unfortunately, it has fallen into a state of great disrepair, though they still serve guests who choose to stay there (it's rating is 3.3 out of 5 stars). NOTE: If you’re with a tour group, don’t attempt to have lunch there as they are notoriously slow.
Happy Valley Botanical Gardens
Happy Valley was once an old slate mine and quarry, made into a beautiful garden in the late 19th century for the people of Llandudno to enjoy. Since the opening coincided with the Golden Jubilee of Queen Victoria, they’re also known as Jubilee Gardens.
Opened on June 30, 1969 as the longest passenger cable car system in Britain, this unique experience continues to be one of town’s most popular attractions with stunning views.
Visit the Llandudno Ski and Snowboard Centre and hop on this exhilarating 575m (1,886ft) toboggan ride, which is actually the longest in Wales.
The Tramway is a popular tourist attraction in Llandudno that’s been hauling passengers up the 1500m incline to the Great Orme since 1902. The bright blue funicular cars are preserved to look as they would in the early 1900s, each named after a different Saint.
The Great Orme headland is a giant limestone formation emerging from the ocean (now can you see the resemblance to a sea monster?) and visible from everywhere in Llandudno. The sweeping panoramic views from the top of the Great Orme trump all the other things to see in Llandudno. You may spot some wildlife at the top including guillemots, razorbills, rare butterflies and adorable Kashmir Goats.
This historical site is known as the world’s largest Bronze Age mine, dating back over 3,500 years. It was only discovered by accident in 1987 by a landscaping team. Since the mines are still being excavated today, they constantly provide new information about how people lived before Roman times.
WHERE TO STAY
The Lighthouse
Osborne House, built in 1851, is the only dressed-stone building along Llandudno promenade. It was designed as high quality gentleman’s residence but was first occupied by a boarding school run by two ladies, the Misses Williams. From 1883, Osborne House was the home of John Walker, brother of Andrew Walker of Liverpool art gallery fame. John Walker inherited his wealth from the Walker brewing family, more recently known as Tetley Walker brewery. He died in 1913, leaving Osborne House in trust to his wife. The house has been remodelled by its present owners, the Maddocks family, in a style which reflects the fashions of the 1850s. It opened in 2001 as a luxury hotel with six suites.
Open since 1854, this hotel continues to modernize themselves for a comfortable, luxurious, yet historical stay. Many well-known political figures still stay here today.
One of the prime properties to now stay at.
The Lighthouse was constructed in 1862 by the Mersey Docks and Harbour Company who, with great attention to detail, built a fortress-like building using dressed limestone and vast bulks of Canadian pitch pine. The beacon remained a continuous warning to mariners until March 22, 1985 when the optic was removed. It is now a three-room hotel, all with stunning views of the ocean.
WHERE TO DINE
Family-run restaurant with contemporary decor and candlelit tables, for British and European dishes.
Simple contemporary eatery serving traditional Italian dishes, often locally sourced.
A fine-dining experience with memorable dishes of classically-inflected modern cuisine with the focus on local, seasonal and market fresh produce.
A charming little tea house
Family-run restaurant and bar with seasonal food.
With dazzling chandeliers, gilt edge mirrors, and original art, this romantic bistro/cafe with brasserie style food has a fixed price three course choice set menu including glass of wine.
CONWY & Conwy Castle
Conwy Castle
Conwy Castle and the town walls were built on the instructions of Edward I of England, between 1283 and 1289, as part of his conquest of the principality of Wales. Over the next few centuries, the castle played an important part in several wars. It withstood the siege of Madog ap Llywelyn in the winter of 1294–95, acted as a temporary haven for Richard II in 1399, and was held for several months by forces loyal to Owain Glyndŵr in 1401. Following the outbreak of the English Civil War in 1642, the castle was held by forces loyal to Charles I, holding out until 1646 when it surrendered to the Parliamentary armies. In the aftermath, the castle was partially slighted by Parliament to prevent it being used in any further revolt, and was finally completely ruined in 1665 when its remaining iron and lead was stripped and sold off. Conwy Castle then became an attractive destination for painters in the late 18th and early 19th centuries. And by the 19th century, visitor numbers grew and initial restoration work was carried out from 1850, on.
WHAT TO SEE
Since we only had a few hours there, we were only able to walk around the outside of the castle and through the town. We did get some stunning pictures and look forward to going back and spending the entire day there. Below’s list includes what we were able to see, as well as what we’d like to see in 2024:
Conwy's only surviving 14th-century merchant's house, one of the first buildings built inside the walls of Conwy.
Dubbed as one of Wales’ best gardens, there are expansive lawns, intimate corners, grand ponds and impressive terraces, plus a steep wooded valley and stream to explore. The remarkable plant collections from all over the world are showcased as well. If you’re going in late spring, visit the Laburnum Arch.
Plas Mawr is an Elizabethan house built in 1576 by the Wynn family, which has been extensively refurbished to its 16th-century appearance and is now open to the public.
The Conwy Railway Bridge is a tubular bridge, built for the Chester and Holyhead Railway by Robert Stephenson. The first tube was completed in 1848, the second in 1849, and is still in use on the North Wales Coast Line, along with the station, which is located within the town walls.
Smallest House in Great Britain
The house is named in the Guinness Book of Records as the “Smallest House in Great Britain”, with dimensions of 3.05 × 1.8 metres (10 ft. X 6 ft.), and can be found on the quay. It was in continuous occupation from the 16th century (and was even inhabited by a family at one point) until 1900 when the owner (a 6 ft. fisherman – Robert Jones) was forced to move out, on the grounds of hygiene. The rooms were too small for him to fully stand up. The house is still owned by his descendants today, and visitors can look around it for a small fee.
Designed by Thomas Telford, the bridge replaced the ferry and was completed in 1826. He designed the bridge's supporting towers to match the castle's turrets. The bridge is now open to pedestrians only.
Vardre Hall is a 19th-century building directly opposite to Conwy Castle. It was erected by Conservative Buckinghamshire MP William Edward FitzMaurice in the mid 1850s. In 1869, the building was sold to solicitor William Jones., who used it as a solicitor's office until 1972, when it was bought out and became The Towers Restaurant. After lying empty for a number of years, Vardre Hall changed hands again, and in 1999 was refurbished as a shop.
where to stay
WHERE TO DINE/DRINK
Run by four local breweries, the ale house was built in the 1920s to showcase local beer and lager.
We ate here, due to their fantastic gluten-free menu. We each had a grilled cheese toastie with tomato soup and shared the carrot cake with avocado frosting (it was amazing).
Hot Stone Cooking is a meal like no other, where you have the opportunity to cook your steak or fish at your table, exactly as you like it, on Volcanic rock. You can also bring your own alcohol with no fee.
Upscale, unobtrusive little French restaurant specializing in farmhouse cooking, using local produce.
From breakfast to dinner, their seasonal menus feature the finest, locally sourced ingredients.
High-quality Welsh food by Nick Rudge who was born and raised in Llandudno.
The Manor Bar & Restaurant in Conwy is set in the beautiful grounds of Gorse Hill Lodge & Caravan Park. This elegant 19th-century manor house has been exquisitely restored and offers dishes of fresh Welsh produce and meats.
Classy restaurant set in a historic 1800s house offering modern European cooking.
Modern Welsh dining in a family-run restaurant with a patio backing on to the old town walls.
Snowdonia
Snowdonia National Park was established in 1951 and covers a total of 823 square miles, making it the largest in Wales and third largest in the U.K. It’s also home to over 26,000 people. We loved our time there so much that we can’t wait to rent a cabin there and explore as much of it as we can!
Betws-Y-Coed
The village, which is now within the Snowdonia National Park, stands in a valley near the point where the River Llugwy and the River Lledr join the River Conwy. The location is where a Celtic Christian community founded a monastery in the late 6th century AD. A village developed around the site over subsequent centuries. In the medieval period, the local lead mining industry brought miners and their families to the village.
Following the Acts of Union 1800, between Ireland and the UK, better transport links were proposed between the two countries. Surveyors decided that the best route for a road (now the A5), between London and Holyhead, should pass through the village. In 1815, Waterloo Bridge, built by Thomas Telford, opened to help carry the Irish Mail road across the River Conwy and through the village. The establishment of the route brought an economic boost to the area as the village became a major mail coach stop between Corwen (to the east) and Capel Curig (to the west). It also led to improvement of the roads to Blaenau Ffestiniog and to Llanrwst and Conwy.
In 1868, Betws-y-Coed railway station opened with the completion of the Conwy Valley line. The railway was built to serve the mineral industries in Blaenau Ffestiniog. With the arrival of the railway from Llandudno Junction railway station, the village's population increased by around 500 people.
where to stay
where to DINE & Drink
Asmall tea room, bakery, and bespoke catering company run from Betws-y-Coed.
Chill pizza parlor with patio seating & imaginative pies including vegan & vegetarian options.
Mondo’s Bistro
While they have no website, they do have a ton of 5-star ratings!
They’ve taken inspiration from Spanish tapas and traditional Welsh dishes to create a menu of small plates, using locally sourced produce wherever possible.
Per their website, “The Coffee Shop, opened in 1973, serves award winning coffee, speciality loose tea/tisanes, smoothies and delicious, quality food including homemade, palm-oil free and free range products.”
The Eagles Hotel Bar & Restaurant
They serve international fare for breakfast, lunch, and dinner.
A top-rated spot for fish and chips.
pontcysyllte aqueduct
Pontcysyllte Aqueduct is 11 miles of stunning canal and countryside spanning two countries, along aqueducts, tunnels and viaducts. The aqueduct was designed by civil engineers Thomas Telford and William Jessop for a location near the 18th-century road crossing, Pont Cysyllte. After the westerly high-ground route was approved, the original plan was to create a series of locks down both sides of the valley to an embankment that would carry the Ellesmere Canal over the River Dee. After Telford was hired, the plan was changed to an aqueduct that would create an uninterrupted waterway straight across the valley. Despite considerable public scepticism, Telford was confident his construction method would work because he had previously built a cast-iron trough aqueduct – the Longdon-on-Tern Aqueduct on the Shrewsbury Canal. The work, which took around ten years from design to construction, cost around of £47,000 (about £4,060,000 today) and officially opened November 26, 1805. It was used until 1939 and formally shut down in 1944 due to the London Midland and Scottish Railway Company Act. A year later, the canal beneath it breached, causing significant damage around the railway, which prompted the aqueduct to be saved in 1955 (despite its official closure to waterway traffic), because it was still required as a water feeder for the remainder of the Shropshire Union Canal and also supplied drinking water to a reservoir at Hurleston. In the latter half of the 20th century, leisure boating traffic began to rise. In a rebranding exercise by British Waterways in the 1980s, the former industrial waterway was renamed the Llangollen Canal. It has since become one of the most popular canals for holidaymakers in Britain because of its aqueducts and scenery.
Though we had about 45 minutes, we were so excited to walk across at least half of it and get some stunning pics in. NOTE: It’s 126 ft. high with the footbridge being about 3 ft. in width, so if you’re scared of heights or have trouble walking, I wouldn’t recommend walking across it.
A history summary
250,000 years - People have lived in North Wales for a quarter of a million years. Palaeolithic hunter-gatherers foraged the coastline and valleys, and the Britain’s oldest Neanderthal remains were found in Pontnewydd near St Asaph.
15,000 years ago - A succession of Ice Ages made Britain uninhabitable, but when the last one ended around 15,000 years ago, our homo sapiens ancestors were back for good.
5,000 BC - Inhabitants were knocking out stone tools at the Graiglwyd axe factory at Penmaenmawr and exporting them all over Britain.
2000 BC - The copper mine at Great Orme was one of the most important in Europe. An estimated 1,800 tons of copper was hewn from deep tunnels.
800 BC - The Iron Age was in full swing and with it, a fashion for building forts on every available hill.
48AD - 394 AD - The island of Mona (Anglesey in English) was the stronghold of the druids, the Celtic priests. The Romans invaded Wales in 48AD and, 30 years later, Mona was the last place to fall. They abandoned Wales in 394 AD.
9th century - The Vikings raided North Wales and left their linguistic footprint in places like Anglesey and Llandudno’s Great Orme (an ‘orme’ being a sea-serpent).
9th century - 13th century - Wales was controlled by principalities who built castles to keep the Norman, and each other, in check.
1277 - 1283 - During his conquest of Wales, Edward began building a chain of fortresses that are among the finest in the world. Four of them - Conwy, Harlech, Caernarfon and Beaumaris form a UNESCO World Heritage Site. All were besieged by Owain Glyndŵr during his uprising in 1400-15; of the four, only Caernarfon remained unbreached.
Industrial Revolution - 485,000 tons of slate, a year, were mined, employing 17,000 men. This made some extremely wealthy, which is why there’s a large array of castles around the country.