Exploring Puerto Vallarta, Mexico

Written By Nichole Hinton

Updated August 11, 2022

When you ask most people what comes to mind when they think of Mexico, you hear food, tequila, the people, and Cancun. More often than not, unless you’re from the west coast, Puerto Vallarta isn’t on the radar of the list of places to visit in the country. If it’s not on yours, it should be.

Having gone twice in just a few months, I’ve come to learn a lot about this town and why it is that many Americans have become ex-pats there. It’s a mix of the Mediterranean and Mexico all in one.

The below information is a complete guide of the best places to stay (and not), the top rated places to dine and drink, and all there is to see and do.  We’ve also included transportation tips, as well as a summary of the history of this beautiful town!

Time needed in this town: 4 nights - one week

Where to stay (and not to)

View from the rooftop of the Grand Miramar Resort

Where to Stay

There is no shortage of places to stay in P.V., whether you’re looking for a quick getaway or a longer-term stay. In fact, so many people have fallen in love with this city that they have purchased real estate here, which means a lot of cheaper rentals, in addition to the resorts!

NOTE: I’m partial to any place in the Conchas Chinas or Zona Romantica sections of town.

Grand Miramar Resort

Located just a few minutes from downtown in the Conchas Chinas section of P.V., Grand Miramar Resort feels like you’re more in Italy than in Mexico. Their spacious suites are meant for long-term stays as they come equipped with a kitchen, large bathroom, plenty of closet space, a dining table, and a living area. There are plenty of bars and restaurants on the property, a well-appointed fitness center, a spa, four fantastic pools (I recommend the pool accessible through Eugenia), as well as so many other amenities!

Other places to Consider

Where Not to Stay

A beautiful view.. from way far away….

The second time I went to Puerto Vallarta, both Blackbeard and I were disappointed. He booked us at Delta Hotels by Marriott Riviera Nayarit, An All-Inclusive Resort and it was by far the biggest disaster of a vacation spot we’ve ever experienced.

Delta Hotels is a newer category of Marriott properties that were previous run-down hotels in need of an uplift, that Marriott bought and revived. Supposedly, they are a category higher than AC Hotels but in our experience, it makes zero sense. They leave the properties open during construction/renovations and while the rates are attractive, it’s not worth any amount of money to experience them until construction/renovations are completed. The offerings at these hotels are primitive at best with absolutely no perks for Platinum members, which is what he is.

With that background, we learned a few things about why this property wasn’t in great shape and why it’s not advisable to visit Riviera Nayarit just yet:

  1. Riviera Nayarit was largely jungle with the locals using this area to vacation. In the last few years with the population exploding in Puerto Vallarta (P.V.)., this is the next section to be developed.

  2. Electricity is still “primitive” compared to P.V., which means when there’s a storm (which there was), the backup generators can only support sections of the resort at a time. For example. we’d get electricity and air conditioning back for 45 minutes, then it would be shut off for another 1 1/2 hours while another section got their 45 minutes.

  3. In order for Marriott to continue on with their construction/renovations, they are required to provide housing for the workers and their families. While we were there, it was virtually all locals except for a few guests.

  4. You’re getting the property as-is. The rooms weren’t in terrible shape, but the common areas were as many pool tiles were missing; the property was riddled with bugs, and the water filtration system was non-existent (my other half ended up ill from a salad). This is in addition to the constant construction noises.

  5. We tried to go off the property once but were advised that there was only one restaurant and no ride shares or taxis to take us.

Still, we made the most of the time we had there and honestly. in a few years, this resort may be pretty cool if you’re looking for more of a jungle-like vacation. See our video below of the better parts of the resort and our experience:

Our lesson learned: Buying land in areas like this makes sense, but staying on it until at least 2025 is ill-advised.

Where to Dine & drink

Abraccio

Sicilian cuisine from homemade recipes.

Barrio Bistro

Serving local dishes with fresh ingredients.

Bravos

Steaks, seafood & pasta with international flavors offered in a warm, relaxed atmosphere.

Cafes des Artistes

Michelin-star Cafe des Artistes

A Michelin-star favorite in P.V., make sure to book an outdoor table at least a week in advance. It’s an unforgettable meal in an awe-inspiring location!

Campomar

A seafood restaurant, originally from Ixtlán del Río, Nayarit, where they transform the traditional flavors, textures and aromas of Nayarit cuisine into exquisite unique dishes to delight Mexican palates.

Cha’

Authentic Mexican cuisine.

Don Chava

Per their site, “We take the time to infuse authentic flavor and hand-made quality into everything we serve, creating our own spice mixes and homemade salsas, and using traditional slow-roast techniques for a mind-blowing taco experience.Vegetarian and gluten-free options available.”

Gaviotas

Award-winning upscale Mexican cuisine.

Kaiser Maximilian

Arched windows & mirrors in a quaint venue serving Austrian fare like schnitzels, plus breakfasts.

La Capella

Elegant restaurant serving a menu of Italian classics in an open-air dining space with city views. NOTE: This needs to be at the top of your list!

La Leche

Innovative Spanish-inflected cuisine with local produce in a whimsical all-white space, plus a bar.

La Madalena

Serving both Mexican and international cuisine.

La Palapa

Elegant venue on the beach serving lobster tacos & ceviche accompanied by traditional live music.

La Vaca Argentina

Serving authentic Argentinian cuisine.

Le Kliff

I recommend this place for the view and the food. The service was a bit sub-par (they took their time checking us in and the waiters were definitely not friendly). Also, if you’re going for dinner, it gets chilly, so be sure to bring a sweater or jacket.

No Se Nada

Serving great cocktails and inventive cuisine.

Oregano

Caribbean Cuisine

Panchos Takos

All I can say is, get in line early (they open at 4pm), and get both the queso and Al Pastor tacos. We still talk about this place all of the time.

Restaurante Barcelona Tapas

Not only is the food incredible, so is the view! Make sure to make reservations a week in advance and try the paella, baked goat cheese, bacon-wrapped dates, and sauteed banana.

The Iguana

A 5-star restaurant in Elizabeth Taylor’s former villa, Casa Kimberly’s open air restaurant, The Iguana, overlooks the city of Puerto Vallarta and Banderas Bay. It serves contemporary Mexican cuisine in an elegant but informal ambience. Their menu blends traditional Mexican dishes with modern culinary influences. Fresh, local and seasonal are his guiding principles.

Tintoque

Chic restaurant set in an elegant building offering creative Mexican dishes, plus a leafy terrace.

TRIO

Art-lined walls & faux columns lend an old-world European feel to this Mediterranean mainstay.

food tours

Things to see & Do

Puerto Vallarta Pier at Los Muertos Beach

There’s no shortage of fun things to do in Puerto Vallarta, whether you just want to relax by the pool or beach, or do something more active. Below are my recommendations of things to experience:

Church Of Our Lady Of Guadalupe

We happened to be in P.V. during Easter weekend, so we were able to experience it at a very special time. The history of Our Lady of Guadalupe (Mary) and ultimately, Catholicism in North America, surrounds the origin story of the Guadalupian Event that took place in December 1531. Juan Diego, an indigenous Mexican man, was 57 years old when he encountered and interacted with La Virgen de Guadalupe (The Virgin Mary). He has been labeled the "Messenger of Hope". This occurrence took place on Tepeyac, a hill to the north of today's Mexico City where the Basilica of Our Lady of Guadalupe is located. According to tradition, this interaction took place on a winter's day in 1531 as Juan Diego was crossing the hill. Lady Guadalupe initially asked Juan Diego to build a house (casita) on the hill. He reported this twice to the local bishop who asked him for proof. It was then the lady appeared again to Juan Diego and asked him to collect flowers—"a strange request because flowers were not in season in December". He found an array of Castilian roses and assembled them into a cloak (tilma) which he returned to the bishop as evidence. The legend says that as he presented the cloak to the bishop, it fell to the ground and they saw an image of La Virgen de Guadalupe she had left imprinted on it.

Cruise on a Pirate Ship

While certainly more touristy, the whole dinner and show takes place on this ship while it cruises around the bay.

Islas Marietas National Park & Hidden Beach

This is an area of several untouched pristine tiny islands, but you need a boat to get there. Note that not all tours go to “Hidden Beach”, which is the most desirable of the beaches. Make sure your tour includes that. However, also note that it’s up to the park service on which days visitors are allowed to access it.

Los Arcos National Park

If you’re into snorkeling, take this tour! It leaves from Los Muertos Pier in Zona Romantica.

Mismaloya

Located on the southern part of Banderas Bay, you’ll find the fishing village of Mismaloya. This is where tourism in the Puerto Vallarta area all started, back in 1963, with the filming of Night Of The Iguana, starring Richard Burton and Elizabeth Taylor.

Rhythms of the Night Dinner Show

Think Mexican luau on both a ship and amphitheater! It’s a top-rated excursion that everyone says is a “must”.

San Sebastian

While it’s about 2 1/2 hours away from downtown P.V., it’s completely worth it to make a day trip here (we will be going in January of 2024 and we can’t wait). It was founded as a mining town in 1605, during the early Spanish colonial Viceroyalty of New Spain period. Gold, silver and lead were mined in the area. More than 25 mines and a number of foundries were established by 1785. The town was formally established as a city in 1812. Today, less than 1,000 people live there.

Sayulita Beach

This is the more bohemian side of Puerto Vallarta and is about an how away from downtown. Every single person that frequents P.V. recommends this as one of the top beaches to go to. If you would prefer to go with a tour group, click here.

Scout out street art all over the city

The amount of street art is incredible!

Tour Tequila, Mexico

Whether you’re a tequila-lover or not, it’s great to visit the distilleries that make the product and learn more about the process. If you prefer a public tour vs. the private one in the first link, click here.

Vallarta Botanical Gardens

Go in the morning and enjoy breakfast before exploring the gardens. You get a personal hummingbird feeder, too!

Volunteer with dogs

You can help out by walking dogs, feeding them and of course, giving them lots of love and attention. 

Walk the Malecon

It’s the main boardwalk and is so vibrant with so much art and so many smiling faces!

Day Trips:

4-Hour Jungle Hike and Waterfall Swim

Discover the tropical forest, hike along the river and learn about local fauna and flora. We 'll take a refreshing dip in the river while enjoying the waterfall and the caves. We finish off with a breathtaking view over the bay from the mountain top!

Full Day Trail to 6 Hidden Beaches

The coast near Puerto Vallarta is home to marvelous hidden beaches and snorkeling spots that would complete any picture-perfect vacation—if you can find them. This full-day hiking tour does the legwork for you, taking small groups through the jungle and coast on foot to find snorkeling spots and hidden beaches such as Colomitos Beach and Playa las Animas.

Full Day Private Cruise With Snorkeling

Savor the perfect escape on a full-day private cruise through Puerto Vallarta's Bay, complete with an exclusive sailboat that is tailored to your needs. Spend the day discovering spectacular views of mountains and beaches while you sail away in style and partake in some snorkeling fun. Get ready for amazing memories as an experienced crew ensures safety so that nothing stands between you and maximum enjoyment.

Hiking Jarullo Point

Parrots, macaws, and orchids are among the flora and fauna you're likely to see on this morning or afternoon hiking adventure in the Sierra Madre Occidental. Explore the natural wonders of this region with a guide, then cool off in the Cuale River.

Luxury Sailing

Explore the curvaceous coastline and iridescent waters of Banderas Bay on a half-day sailing tour from Puerto Vallarta. Sail upon the shimmering sea; swim in crystal clear blue water; and discover the incredible natural wonders of Banderas Bay. Snorkel in a secluded cove and enjoy included beverages and delicious lunch as you cruise on your luxurious vessel. Combine the unadulterated pleasure of sailing with pampering on this delightful excursion.

Sayulita Surfer Beach Town and Zarandeado with Seafood Grill

In this activity you will have the opportunity to explore one of the most iconic communities on the Rivera Nayarit located in the municipality of Bahia de Banderas. Sayulita has a magic and electrifying vibe that encourages you to enjoy nature whether in the water, in the mountains, on foot, on horseback, or by motorized vehicles. Sayulita is a popular sufer's town which is a hot tourist location. This experience will allow me to share my love for grilling with you as I prepare a special Zarandeado dish. The Zarandeado dish is the authentic dish of Nayarit. It is a fish that is smothered in a chile paste and other spices served along skewered shrimp. You will revel in the beauty and colorful multicultural town that is Sayulita.

how to get around

Rideshares/taxis

We’ve learned access to transportation around the city all depends on where you are staying or where you are attempting to go. Taxis (highly negotiable rates) and Ubers work well, as does the more local ride share apps: DiDi and InDriver. They all cost about the same (very inexpensive). However, depending on where you are staying or where you will be traveling to/from will depend on their level of accessibility. See below for some tips on this:

  1. To/from the airport - There are three ways to do this, without getting caught in the “tourist trap gauntlet” on the way out: 1. Pre-schedule a shuttle ride prior to leaving for your trip; 2. Pre-schedule a rideshare. 3. When you exit the airport, turn left and go to the end of the sidewalk. Off to the left, you will sometimes see 1 or 2 taxis there that are willing to take you to your destination at a reduced rate. For example, our 30-minute ride to Conchas Chinas was $20 USD (tip included).

  2. Around downtown during the day - Rideshares are very much available with a 3-6 minute wait time.

  3. Around downtown during the evening - Rideshares are available but can take 15-20 minutes to show up, or you may see 2-3 cancellations depending on where your destination is. I’ve found taxis are easier to come by - you just need to have cash on you.

  4. Longer drive time destinations, such as heading to Le Kliff (30-45 minutes) - If you are staying at a resort, have them call you a taxi, as well as do the same at whatever destination you are heading to. Ride shares tend to “hover” no more than 10-15 minutes from populated areas and in some cases, there’s not enough cell service at your further destination to request one. The other option is to pre-schedule one and hope a driver is nearby to pick you up. Or, I’d suggest renting a car.

  5. Day trips to Sayulita, San Sebastian, etc. - I’d suggest renting a car, hiring a driver for the day, or booking a tour group that can get you to those locations. Ride shares and taxis are a slim-to-none chance.

  6. Staying in remote parts, such as Nayarit? No option will be available. The hotels there are only able to call taxis for you and usually, it’s for the airport.

Renting a car

If you have the means, I’d suggest renting a car. Yes, there are crazy drivers there (they’re everywhere) but it may be the most reliable way to get around, outside of the city. If you plan on not exploring points 15 minutes and beyond, outside of the city, then there’s no need to rent one.

A History Summary

  • 1885 - A formal port was established.

  • 1918 - Puerto Vallarta receives its formal name. though it didn’t receive its formal name.

  • 1920s - The population grew rapidly after the introduction of banana plantations in the surrounding area

  • 1925 - A hurricane destroyed parts of the area.

  • 1932 - The first airplane service arrived with electrical service (on a small scale) arriving about the same time.

  • 1933 - The first suspension bridge over the Cuale went up

  • 1939 - The city's first plumbing system was started.

  • 1942 - Puerto Vallarta was finally connected by road to Compostela, Nay. Until then, the only access to Puerto Vallarta was by sea, air, or by mule trails to the sierra towns. Also, in the New York-based magazine, Modern Mexico, the first advertisement for a Puerto Vallarta vacation appeared, sponsored by the Air Transport Company of Jalisco.

  • 1945 - The Air Transport Company of Jalisco was landing DC-3s in Puerto Vallarta (which could only carry 21 passengers at a time).

  • 1950s - Puerto Vallarta had started to attract Americans, mostly writers and artists in search of a retreat from the US.

  • 1956 - The Mascota mule trail was replaced by a packed dirt road

  • 1958 - 24-hour electrical generation arrived.

  • 1962 - A new airport arrived connecting Puerto Vallarta with Los Angeles, vía Mazatlán, and the Mexican Aviation Company began offering package trips.

  • 1964 - American director John Huston filmed The Night of the Iguana in Mismaloya - a small town just south of Puerto Vallarta. During the filming, the US media gave extensive coverage to Elizabeth Taylor's extramarital affair with Richard Burton, as well as covering the frequent fighting between Huston and the film's four stars. The subsequent publicity helped put Puerto Vallarta on the map for US tourists.

  • 1968 - The Puerto Vallarta municipality was elevated to City status.

  • 1970s - Resort hotels boomed due to tourism

  • 1970 - The Mexican government invested significantly in transportation improvements making Puerto Vallarta an easy travel destination. To make Puerto Vallarta accessible by jet aircraft, the government developed the city's international airport. In addition, they also invested heavily in the development of highway and utility infrastructure and established the El Salado wharf (where the current cruise terminal is located), Finally, U.S. President Richard Nixon met with Mexican then-President Gustavo Díaz Ordaz in Puerto Vallarta for treaty negotiations. The visit showcased Puerto Vallarta's recently developed international airport and resort infrastructure. The U.S. presidential visit contributed significantly to getting Puerto Vallarta's name in the news and visibility as a resort destination.

  • 1973 - The Mexican federal government resolved century-old property disputes of land that had communal status - land the federal government had appropriated from the Union en Cuale mining company to be parceled out as communal farms. A significant transition of these lands into private ownership, within present Puerto Vallarta city limits, took place in 1973 with the establishment of the Vallarta Land Trust to oversee selling government land into private hands, and using the sales revenue to develop the city's infrastructure.

  • 1974 - The city experienced rapid growth in global-brand luxury hotels and international resorts.

  • 1982 - The peso was devalued and Puerto Vallarta became a bargain destination for US tourists, which naturally created a rapid rise in tourist volume.

  • Today - Rhere are over 22,000 places to stay with over 300,000 inhabitants, and 5 million annual visitors.

Nichole Hinton
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