Exploring Delhi, India
Note: This post has been updated on May 10, 2022.
Time needed in Delhi: 4 nights
Prior to ever going to India, I was unsure how I would do there. Every picture and video I had ever seen made me believe that there were too many people, too much trash/smog, and a large hygiene problem. While those three things can be found in sections of this extremely dense country, I also found myself in awe by it’s colorful beauty, some of its customs, and much of the food.
The below information is a complete guide of the best places to stay, the top rated places to dine and drink, and all there is to see and do. We’ve also included transportation, safety, and wellness tips, as well as a summary of the history of this very expansive city.
NOTE: If you’d like to check out the other sections of India I traveled to, scroll down to the end of this post for those links.
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Where to Stay
Where to Dine & Drink
Aura Bar
Per their description, “Aura stands out with its art deco-inspired interior, featuring rich aubergine hues, Salvador Dali-inspired lip sofas, purple vaulted ceilings and an emerald amethyst bar. Its unique charm is further enhanced by an AI robot, creating an idyllic atmosphere for those who appreciate luxury. The culinary offerings, crafted by our team of expert chefs, include an array of global gourmet dishes like crispy fried wings and perfectly constructed tacos, all made with high-quality, seasonal produce. The bar's extensive drink selection ranges from fruity and floral to rare and vintage options, where guests can indulge in custom-made martinis from a roving trolley.”
Delhi 'O' Delhi
Indian fare offered in a sizable room featuring traditional motifs & artworks, plus skyline views.
Erawaan
Located in The Claridges, they serve some of the best Thai food in New Delhi.
Haldirams
EVERYONE heads to Haldirams for all of their traditional sweets. The one in Delhi also has a small cafe to eat there. I've come to love all traditional sweets (that are gluten-free anyway), with my favorite being Burfi. If you go, ask for the pink and white (coconut) or the traditional silver leaf. Both are amazing and quite addicting!
Indian Accent
Located in The Manor, it puts a contemporary twist on Indian cuisine.
Juniper Bar
Located in the Andaz Hotel, they specialize in gin cocktails, as well as a variety of infused spirits in a sleek, upscale environment.
Kiyan
Chic hotel restaurant that is brasserie by day, lavishly decorated Mughlai fine dining by night.
Le Cirque
Located in Leela Palace, they serve refined French-Italian cuisine & wine.
Machan
Located in the Taj Mahal hotel, Machan is a safari-themed restaurant serving a range of international cuisines.
Megu
Located in Leela Palace, it serves artful sushi and other Japanese fare.
Orient Express
Located in the Taj Palace Hotel, it’s an upmarket European cuisine served in a classy dining room, modeled after the Orient Express train.
San Gimignano
Located in the Imperial Hotel, it serves classic Italian fare.
Shang Palace
Located in the Shangri-la, it serves regional Chinese cuisine.
Sorrento
In the Shangri-la, it serves refined Italian food with a wood-fired oven.
The Library Bar
Located in Leela Palace, The Library Bar is a glamorous lounge bar with leather Chesterfield sofas and atmospheric lighting.
Varq
Located in the Taj Mahal Hotel on Mansingh, this was hands-down the best dining experience I have ever had. For $150 (with tip), I was treated to a five-course meal, a special cake, rose tea (with a gift of it to take home with me), and drinks. I strongly suggest going there for dinner (even if you order a la carte) for not just the food, but the atmosphere, and staff as well. I've eaten at some of the best places all over the world (food is an EXPERIENCE in my opinion - and I live for this), and this was hands-down, the most unparalleled experience I've had, to-date. Rajesh Kumar Singh, the Sous Chef, made sure to visit with me on multiple occasions, during my experience, to not only make sure I understood the ingredients I was eating, but also to ensure that my food was exactly what I had hoped for (which blew away any expectations I might have had). This was in addition to the extreme kindness of the wait staff, as well as Rashminder Singh - the Guest Service Supervisor, who ensured I was provided with everything I needed. This is a MUST DO, when in New Delhi.
Wasabi by Morimoto
Glitzy contemporary dining room for a celebrity chef's modern take on Japanese cuisine.
Things to See & Do
Historical Exploration
Agrasen ki Baoli
Agrasen ki baoli is a stepwell - a sophisticated water-harvesting structure, proliferated throughout India, beginning around 600 CE (there were thousands of them at the time). Flights of steps were excavated, adjacent to deep well shafts, ensuring that the ever-fluctuating ground water could be reached all year long. It was also considered a welcome oasis for travelers seeking shelter with niched corridors, running along both sides.
Today, most of these stepwells are abandoned and almost completely dilapidated, though a few have been restored by the government.
FUN FACT: It’s also considered one of the most haunted places in Delhi, with many stories of curses, demons, suicides, and ghosts. It was also the filming location of the 2014 hit movie, PK, in which Bollywood superstar, Aamir Khan, played an alien.
Bijay Mandal
Tucked away in Jahanpanah (one of seven medieval cities forming Delhi) is a 14th century fort and palace that was once the seat of power of the Tughlaq dynasty. It’s believed to be the site of the “Thousand-Pillared Palace” of the Tughlaq Sultan Muhammad-bin-Tughlaq, who founded the walled city of Jahanpanah to protect from Mongol invasions.
Today, this palace is in ruins, though can still be explored. When you go up a flight of stairs and turn right, you’ll see a steep and half-broken staircase leading to the first level of the fort. One more round of steep stairs from there and you are at the top of the pavilion, with amazing panoramic views of the city.
Feroz Shah Kotla (500 RP per person)
The Feroz Shah Kotla was a fortress built, circa 1354, by Feroz Shah Tughlaq, to house his version of Delhi city called, “Firozabad”.
A pristine polished sandstone Topra Ashokan pillar, from the 3rd century BC, rises from the palace's crumbling remains, one of many pillars of Ashoka left by the Mauryan emperor. It was later moved from Topra Kalan in Pong Ghati of Yamunanagar district, in Haryana, to Delhi, under orders of Firoz Shah Tughlaq of Delhi Sultanate, and re-erected in its present location, in 1356.
Humayun's Tomb
After his death on January 27, 1556, Humayun's body was first buried in his palace, in Purana Quila, at Delhi. It was then taken to Sirhind, in Punjab, by Khanjar Beg. In 1558, it was seen by Humayun's son, the then Mughal Emperor, Akbar who visited the tomb in 1571, when it was about to be completed.
The tomb of Humayun was built by the orders of his first wife and chief consort, Empress Bega Begum (also known as Haji Begum). Construction began in 1565 and was completed in 1572, and cost 1.5 million rupees, which was paid entirely by the Empress. She had been so grieved over her husband's death that she dedicated her life to the construction of a memorial to him that would be the most magnificent mausoleum in the Empire, at a site near the Yamuna River in Delhi. According to Ain-i-Akbari, a 16th-century detailed document, written during the reign of Akbar, Bega Begum supervised the construction of the tomb after returning from Mecca and undertaking the Hajj pilgrimage.
An English merchant, William Finch, who visited the tomb in 1611, described a rich interior of the central chamber (in comparison to the sparse look today). He mentions the presence of rich carpets, as well as a small tent above the cenotaph, which was covered with a pure white sheet, and with copies of the Quran in front, along with Humayun's sword, turban, and shoes.
Over the centuries, many gardens were planted and areas re-landscaped, each to be more beautiful than the last, until 1947 when it was used as a major refugee camp for Muslims migrating to the newly founded Pakistan. These camps stayed open for about five years and caused considerable damage not only to the extensive gardens, but also to the water channels and the principal structures. They were raided many times by jathas, which caused vandalism. To avoid further destruction, the cenotaphs within the mausoleum were encased in brick. In the coming years, the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI) took on responsibility for the preservation of heritage monuments in India and gradually, the building and its gardens were restored. Until 1985, four unsuccessful attempts were made to reinstate the original water features. It wasn’t until 2003 that they were successful.
Indira Gandhi Memorial (free admission)
Indira Gandhi was an Indian politician who served as the third Prime Minister of India from 1966 to 1977 and again from 1980 until her assassination in 1984. She was India's first and only female prime minister, as well as a central figure in Indian politics as the leader of the Indian National Congress. Gandhi was the daughter of Jawaharlal Nehru, the first prime minister of India, and the mother of Rajiv Gandhi, who succeeded her in office as the country's 6th prime minister.
The Indira Gandhi Memorial Museum is one of the most powerful museums I have walked through. Her former home gives you a glimpse into not only how she lived her life, but also how she impacted an entire country. The artifacts included are unapologetic and very emotional, ending the tour with a glass block over the exact part of the walkway she was assassinated on.
India Gate (free admission)
The India Gate (formerly known as All India War Memorial) is a war memorial located near the Kartavya path on the eastern edge of the "ceremonial axis" of New Delhi, formerly called Rajpath. It stands as a memorial to 74,187 soldiers of the Indian Army who died between 1914 and 1921 in WW I, in France, Flanders, Mesopotamia, Persia, East Africa, Gallipoli, and elsewhere in the Near and the Far East, and the Third Anglo-Afghan War. 13,300 servicemen's names, including some soldiers and officers from the United Kingdom, are inscribed on the gate.
The India Gate and its surrounding grassy areas (Krishi Bhawan) are easily one of my favorite parts of Delhi. People come from all over the world, picnic in the parks, practice yoga, and spend time with friends. The India Gate is also host to many parades and many protests. I highly encourage spending your morning or afternoon there, taking in all of the scenery.
Qutb Minar and its Temples (500 rs per foreign visitor)
The Qutb Minar is a minaret and "victory tower" that forms part of the Qutb complex, which lies at the site of Delhi's oldest fortified city (1199 - 1220), Lal Kot (which was founded by the Tomar Rajputs). It consists of 399 steps and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site in the Mehrauli area of South Delhi.
The surfaces of Qutb Minar are elaborately decorated with inscriptions and geometric patterns with a shaft that is fluted with "superb stalactite bracketing under the balconies" at the top of each stage. In general, minarets were slow to be used in India and are often detached from the main mosque where they exist.
In recent years, the Qutb Minar has been illuminated for special occasions involving international relations. In September 2023, the monument was lit up in the colors of the Mexican flag to celebrate Mexico's 213th Independence Day, an event that was acknowledged and appreciated by the Embassy of Mexico in India. Similarly, on October 30, 2023, the Qutb Minar was illuminated with the Turkish flag to commemorate the 100th anniversary of the Republic of Turkey, an occasion that received special attention from the Turkish Embassy in New Delhi.
Seeing this Minar (tower) in person is an architectural wonder of the world, still standing upright as though it wasn't built all that long ago. Its grounds are very reminiscent of Pompeii as it's expansive, still much in-tact, and gives you a glimpse into how people lived almost nine centuries ago.
Smith’s Folly
Built-in the early 13th century, the tower originally stood over 300 feet tall and underwent several repairs throughout the ages. In 1803, its cupola was severely damaged in an earthquake, and Major Robert Smith of the British Indian Army set out to repair it. His pillared cupola was installed in 1828 as the 6th story of the tower, but removed it in 1848 as its architectural style was unfit for the ancient monument. It’s now on the ground and was then came to be known as “Smith’s Folly”.
Raj Ghat - Gandhi Memorial and Museum (free admission)
Raj Ghat is a memorial complex in Delhi, India. The first memorial was dedicated to Mahatma Gandhi where a black marble platform was raised to mark the spot of his cremation on January 31, 1948 and consists of an eternal flame at one end. Located on Delhi's Ring Road, officially known as “Mahatma Gandhi Road”, a stone footpath leads to the walled enclosure that houses the memorial. Later the memorial complex was expanded to include other memorials for other prominent people including Jawaharlal Nehru, Lal Bahadur Shastri, Indira Gandhi, Rajiv Gandhi, Charan Singh, and Atal Bihari Vajpayee.
The museum, itself, gives a detailed account of his entire life with artifacts throughout, including the jeep that transported his body. It's very powerful and very moving. If you're short on time, at least visit the Memorial.
NOTE: No shoes are allowed to be worn at the memorial. They will collect them upon entrance and return them to you when you return (it will be a couple of rupees as a tip when you collect them).
Rashtrapati Bhavan
The Governor-General of India resided at Government House in Calcutta until the shift of the imperial capital to Delhi. Viceroy Lord Wellesley, who is reputed to have said that ‘India should be governed from a palace, not from a country house’, ordered the construction of this grand mansion between 1799 and 1803 and in 1912, the Governor of Bengal took up residence there. About 4,000 acres of land was acquired to begin the construction of Viceroy's House, as it was originally called, and adjacent Secretariat Building, between 1911 and 1916, by relocating Raisina and Malcha villages that existed there and their 300 families, under the Land Acquisition Act in 1894.
When Chakravarti Rajagopalachari assumed office as the first India-born Governor General of India, he became the occupant of this palace, though he preferred to stay in a few rooms in the former Guest Wing, which is now the family wing of the President. He then converted the then Viceroy's apartments into the Guest Wing, where visiting heads of state could stay while in India.
On January 26, 1950, Rajendra Prasad became the first President of India and occupied this building, prompting the government to rename the building to “Rashtrapati Bhavan” (the President's House).
Red Fort (520rs per foreign visitor)
The Red Fort (Lal Qila) is a historic fort in Old Delhi that historically served as the main residence of the Mughal (Muslim) emperors. Emperor Shah Jahan commissioned construction of the Red Fort on May 12, 1639, when he decided to shift his capital from Agra to Delhi. Originally red and white, its design is credited to architect, Ustad Ahmad Lahori, who also constructed the Taj Mahal. The fort represents the peak in the Mughal architecture under Shah Jahan and combines Persian palace architecture with Indian traditions.
The fort was plundered of its artwork and jewels during Nader Shah's invasion of the Mughal Empire in 1739. Most of the fort's marble structures were subsequently demolished by the British following the Indian Rebellion of 1857. The fort's defensive walls were largely undamaged and was subsequently used as a garrison.
On August 15, 1947, the first Prime Minister of India, Jawaharlal Nehru, raised the Indian flag above the Lahori Gate. Every year on India's Independence Day (August 15th), the prime minister hoists the Indian tri-color flag at the fort's main gate and delivers a nationally broadcast speech from its ramparts, through the Public Address System of Indian Army Corps of Signals.
The Red Fort was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2007 as part of the Red Fort Complex.
While the buildings themselves are in a poor state of upkeep, it is very interesting to see the different political/architectural influences from different periods of rule, including Muslim and British.
Secretariat Building and Surrounding Government Buildings
The Secretariat Buildings are a group of administrative buildings built in New Delhi between 1912 and 1931. Herbert Baker designed these buildings, incorporating neo-Renaissance features, such as the domes and the columns. Added to the neo-Renaissance features are Indian elements, such as chhatris (canopies), jalis (carved perforated screens), chhajja (dripstone), carved brackets, and elephant heads on Corinthian pillars. Today, these buildings house important ministries.
If you have ever been to Washington, D.C., you know the buildings certainly are impressive... until you go to Delhi. The red sandstone buildings and British architecture are a beautiful wonder! If you have the time, take a walk around the buildings and then head down to India Gate.
Tomb of Balban
Built in circa 1287 CE in rubble masonry, the tomb is a building of historical importance in the development of Indo-Islamic architecture, as it was here that first Islamic arch made its appearance in India and according to many, the first Islamic dome as well (which didn’t survive). Ghiyas ud din Balban (1200–1287) was a Turkic ruler of the Delhi Sultanate during the rule of Mamluk dynasty of Delhi (or Slave dynasty) from 1266 to 1287. He was one of the most prominent rulers of the Slave Dynasty. The tomb of Balban was discovered in the mid-20th century.
As of today, the Indian government has done a ton of restoration work, due to its aggressive deteriorating nature.
How to get there: The conventional entrance to the tomb, off the main road, is almost always closed. To access the tomb, go by the Jamali Kamali tombs and on the opposite side, you will see a path that will take you to Balban's tomb.
Religious History
Akshardham
Swaminarayan Akshardham is a Hindu temple, as well as spiritual-cultural campus in Delhi, and is close to the border with Noida. It is the world's second-largest BAPS Hindu temple, following Akshardham in New Jersey.
The temple was officially opened on November 6, 2005 by Pramukh Swami Maharaj in the presence of A. P. J. Abdul Kalam, Manmohan Singh, L.K Advani and B.L Joshi. The temple, at the center of the complex, was built according to the Vastu shastra and Pancharatra shastra.
The complex features an abhishek mandap, Sahaj Anand water show, a thematic garden, and three exhibitions, namely Sahajanand Darshan (Hall of Values), Neelkanth Darshan (an IMAX film on the early life of Swaminarayan as the teenage yogi, Nilkanth), and Sanskruti Darshan (cultural boat ride). According to Swaminarayan Hinduism, the word Akshardham means “the abode of Swaminarayan” and is believed by followers as a temporal home of God on earth.
Jama Masjid Mosque
Masjid-i-Jehan-Numa, commonly known as the “Jama Masjid of Delhi”, is one of the largest mosques in India.
It was built by the Mughal emperor, Shah Jahan, between 1644 and 1656, and inaugurated by its first Imam, Syed Abdul Ghafoor Shah Bukhari. Situated in the Mughal capital of Shahjahanabad (today Old Delhi), it served as the imperial mosque of the Mughal emperors until the demise of the empire in 1857. The Jama Masjid was regarded as a symbolic gesture of Islamic power across India, well into the colonial era. It was also a site of political significance during several key periods of British rule. It remains in active use, and is one of Delhi's most iconic sites, closely identified with the ethos of Old Delhi.
Lotus Temple (free admission)
The architect of the Lotus Temple was Iranian-born, Fariborz Sahba, who now lives in La Jolla, California. He was approached in 1976 to design the Lotus Temple and later oversaw its construction. The structural design was undertaken by the British firm, Flint and Neill, over the course of 18 months, at a cost of $10.56 million. The major part of the funds needed to buy this land was donated by Ardishír Rustampúr of Hyderabad, Sindh (Pakistan), whose will stipulated that his entire life savings would go towards the building of the temple. A portion of the construction budget was saved and used to build a greenhouse to study indigenous plants and flowers that would be appropriate for use on the site.
Rúhíyyih Khánum laid the foundation stone for the Lotus Temple on October 19, 1977 and dedicated the temple on December 24, 1986. For the dedication, there was a gathering of 8,000 Baháʼís from 107 countries, including some 4,000 Baháʼís from 22 states in India. The temple was opened to the public on January 1, 1987 and more than 10,000 people visited that day.
This is one of the best hidden gems of Delhi! Once inside, no shoes are allowed to be worn (they will give you a bag to carry them), no talking can take place, nor are pictures allowed. Instead, people come to pray to their own deity, making this one of many places that fosters peaceful coexistence.
ISKCON - a Hare Krishna Temple (free admission)
The ISKCON Temple was designed and built by Achyut Kanvinde, who in 1993, agreed to accept a pro-bono commission to build this temple complex for the followers of Srila Prabhupada. It is one of the largest temple complexes in India and is comprised of numerous rooms for priests and for service renders. The temple also has a 375-seat auditorium, which is used for cultural and religious functions. It has many halls that are used for its administration purposes and various seminars.
While the temple was closed for services while I was there, the surrounding areas were available to walk through. While I have never been to other parts of Asia, the architecture is unmistakable far east influence. It's stunning and very peaceful.
NOTE: In order to visit the higher grounds, closer to the temple, you must remove your shoes.
The Arts & Sciences
National Crafts Museum
The Crafts Museum was established in 1956 by the now defunct All India Handicrafts Board. Starting in the 1950s, the museum was set up as a space for craftsmen who would come in to work towards the preservation of various traditional arts and crafts. By the 1980s, the museum had already had a substantial collection.
Today, the museum holds over 35,000 rare and distinctive pieces reflecting the continuing tradition of Indian craftsmen through painting, embroidery, textiles, and various crafts of clay, stone and wood.
Cafe Lota
Nestled in the museum’s courtyard, Cafe Lota serves hard-to-find regional specialties, using traditional grains (such as millet, black bean curry, or hemp chutney), to showcase the ingenuity of the country’s diverse cuisines. Built to resemble a roadside restaurant (dhaba), the cafe is open-air, shaded by a roof of dried natural materials. Note: It may be rather hot May - July.
National Museum
Established in 1949, The National Museum holds a variety of articles, ranging from pre-historic era to modern works of art. It functions under the Ministry of Culture, Government of India. It holds around 200,000 works of art, mostly Indian, but some of foreign origin, covering a span of 5,000+ years. It also houses the National Museum Institute of History of Art, Conservation and Museology on the first floor, which was established in 1983, and has been a university since 1989, running master's and doctoral level courses in art history, conservation, and museology.
Unique Experiences
Khair Baoli Rooftop
Built by the Mughal emperor, Shah Jahan, in the mid-1600s, as a walled city called, “Shahjahanabad”, it served as the empire’s capital from then until the British Raj gained supremacy in 1857. However, out of all the streets that make up this city, Khari Baoli is the best of them all, given it is the world’s biggest spice market, since 1930. The challenge is that it’s so big, it’s hard to get a great vantage point. This is where the rooftop of this great market comes in handy.
The rooftop is free to access and provides expansive views of the street markets, the Fatehpuri Masjid mosque, and on clear days, the Red Fort. It’s best to go there in the morning and during sunset.
NOTE: This rooftop can get busy with boys flying kites from it, merchants using the space to dry spices and vegetables, calls to prayer, and traveling vendors from other states using it as a place to rest or sleep.
Taj Mahal Day Trip
See the Taj Mahal on a private full-day tour from Delhi that includes visits to Agra Fort and Mehtab Bagh. Your guide will share commentary about Agra and its UNESCO World Heritage sites as you explore the monuments. No need to worry about logistics as your tour includes hotel pickup and drop-off in Delhi, private air-conditioned transportation, lunch, and a local guide in Agra. To learn more about Agra and the Taj Mahal, click here.
Take a Food Tour
One of the reasons people love coming to India is experiencing the rich food scene, especially when it comes to street food! The best way to do this is with a guide that can take you to the best spots!
Want to try your hand at cooking authentic Indian? Take a five-course cooking class!
Yamuna Ghat
Like the Ganges, the Yamuna is highly venerated in Hinduism and worshipped as the goddess Yamuna. In Hinduism, she is believed to be the daughter of the sun god, Surya, and the sister of Yama, the god of death, and so she is also known as Yami. According to popular Hindu legends, bathing in Yamuna's sacred waters frees one from the torments of death. It’s also a popular place to release a loved one’s ashes. While all of that sounds poetic, it’s also the most contaminated river in the world and unfortunately makes up 70% of Delhi’s water supply.
So why go? Many arrive at sunrise to see not just the beauty of the sunrise, but also hundreds of seagulls grabbing their morning breakfast.
Walking Tours
DLF Malls
If you are a creature of comfort and need more modern day shopping facilities, head over to DLF in Noida. It literally houses every brand you can think of, from Tom Ford, to Christian Louboutin, to Louis Vuitton, all the way to Zara (which is where I went). While I have no idea on prices for most of these stores, I can tell you that Zara is cheaper, based on the dollar conversion rate. It was also the day after Diwali, which meant big sales!
Ghaffar Market
The Ghaffar Market is in one of the oldest parts of Delhi, and also happens to be one of the largest hubs of purchasing just about anything you could need. You can get lost in the alleyways, checking out all of the different stalls, or heading into any number of stores. BUT, it's a MUST to bring your A-game when it comes to haggling. For $150, I was able to obtain a complete, hand-made Lehenga (see above) at New Handloom Emporium, a crystal-covered clutch, a hairdryer, nail polish, and a traditional jewelry set. To provide reference, it would cost upwards of almost $600-$1000 elsewhere.
For men, there are great genuine leather shoes, hand-made for about $50 a pair; polo shirts for $15-$20, jeans for $20-$30, etc.
FOOD TIP: Make sure to visit Khurana Restaurant for the best Tandoori Chicken you will ever have. Do not order anything else.
Hauz Khas Village
Think SOHO. Hauz Khas is witnessing the growth of trendy shops and lodgings. It is now becoming the center for domestic and international tourists and backpackers. The area also is home to historical monuments and has easy access to the Delhi Metro, making it a preferred location for many visitors to India and domestic middle-class visitors from other Indian states.
Lajpat Nagar
Lajpat Nagar is a residential and commercial neighborhood in the South East Delhi district of Delhi. It was named in honor of Lala Lajpat Rai and is today most known for the Lajpat Nagar Central Market.
In the recent years, Lajpat Nagar has become a preferred residential neighborhood for tourists and certain refugees from various countries, including Afghanistan, who often travel to New Delhi as medical tourists, owing to the presence of affordable quality health care in the capital. It is common to see individuals from different parts of India and Afghanistan in this neighborhood.
Lajpat Nagar sits in another section of Old Delhi and since I went on Diwali, it was mass chaos, due to fire sales. It is one of the best markets for costume jewelry and textiles. For $20, I bought two cocktail rings and a crystal hair clip to complete my outfit (see above). It easily would have cost $40-$50 elsewhere.
FOOD TIP: Try Bhutta (corn on the coals). It is the traditional way to cook corn and it tastes amazing.
Lodi Gardens (free admission)
Lodi Gardens is a city park that spreads over 90 acres. It contains Mohammed Shah's Tomb, the Tomb of Sikandar Lodi, the Shisha Gumbad, and the Bara Gumbad - all architectural works of the 15th century by Lodis, who ruled parts of northern India, Punjab, and the Khyber Pakhtunkhwa province of modern-day Pakistan, from 1451 to 1526. The site is now protected by the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI).
TIP: The Lodi Gardens are best viewed in the morning as there are far less people, giving you plenty of time (and space) to walk around and enjoy the grounds and temples!
Lothian Cemetery
Established in 1808, Lothian Cemetery is the oldest British cemetery in New Delhi that was in use until the 1960s.
Throughout the cemetery are graves of members of the East India Company and their families who died during India’s first cholera outbreak during the 19th-century. Also buried in the cemetery are English servicemen who died during the Indian Rebellion of 1857.
FUN FACT: A famous ghostly tale comes from this cemetery, which is of Sir Nicholas - a British officer whose ghost is now said to roam the cemetery missing its head. As the story goes, Sir Nicholas fell in love with a local Indian lady who eventually married another. Heartbroken, Nicholas took his own life over his lost love. Sound familiar? Next time to you see “Nearly Headless Nick” in Harry Potter, you know where he came from.
Sunder Nursey
Sunder Nursery is a 16th-century heritage park complex, adjacent to the Humayun's Tomb. Originally known as Azim Bagh and built by the Mughals (Muslims) in the 16th century, it lies on the Mughal-era Grand Trunk Road, and is spread over 90 acres. The nursery contains 15 heritage monuments of which 6 are UNESCO World Heritage Sites, including the Lakkarwala Burj, the Mughal Tomb, and the Mirza Muzaffar Hussain’s tomb.
Sunderwala Burj
Built in the 16th-century, the Mughal-era tomb has a domed ornamental ceiling (which was common at that time period). The ceiling design features an impressive rendition of stars in the night sky, making it a complete marvel to experience.
It’s situated at the main entrance.
How to Get Around
Getting a guide - I would highly recommend hiring a guide to take you on a tour of the new and old sections of Delhi as it can be quite overwhelming. Click here for a guide recommendation.
Click here to access the full article on navigating India, including how to plan your trip when it comes to Visas, packing, etc.
A History Summary
Before 400 AD - Indraprastha is a city situated on a knoll.
11th century - Tomara Rajput King Anang Pal built the Lal Kot and several temples on Delhi’s southern side.
12th century - The Chauhan Rajputs under Vigraharaja IV conquered Lal Kot and renamed it Qila Rai Pithora. At the end of the century, Prithviraj Chauhan was defeated by Muhammad Ghori in the second battle of Tarain. Qutb-ud-din Aibak was given the responsibility of governing the conquered territories of India after Ghori returned to his capital, Ghor.
1200s - 1500s - For the next three hundred years, Delhi was ruled by a succession of Turkic and an Afghan, Lodi dynasty. They built several forts and townships that are part of the seven cities of Delhi.
13th century - Ghori died without an heir, so Qutb-ud-din assumed control of Ghori's Indian possessions and laid the foundation of the Delhi Sultanate and the Mamluk dynasty. He began construction of the Qutb Minar and Quwwat-al-Islam (Might of Islam) mosque- the earliest extant mosque in India. At the end of the century, the Mamluk Sultanate (Delhi) was overthrown by Jalal ud din Firuz Khalji of which the Delhi sultanate extended its control south of the Narmada River in the Deccan.
14th century - In an attempt to bring the whole of the Deccan under control, the capital was moved to Daulatabad, Maharashtra in central India. However, by moving away from Delhi the sultanate lost control of the north and was forced to return to Delhi to restore order. The southern provinces then broke away. At the end of the century, Delhi was captured and sacked by Timur who massacred 100,000 captive civilians.
1414 - 1451 - Delhi's decline continued under the Sayyid dynasty until the sultanate was reduced to Delhi and its hinterland.
1451 - 1526 - Under the Afghan Lodi dynasty, the sultanate recovered control of Punjab and the Gangetic plain to once again achieve domination over Northern India. However, the recovery was short-lived and the sultanate was destroyed in 1526 by Babur, founder of the Mughal dynasty.
1526 - Babur, a descendant of Genghis Khan and Timur from the Fergana Valley in modern-day Uzbekistan, invaded India and defeated the last Lodi sultan in the First Battle of Panipat and founded the Mughal Empire that ruled from Delhi and Agra.
1526 - 1800s - The Mughal dynasty ruled Delhi, with the exception of a 16 year hiatus, during the reigns of Sher Shah Suri and Hemu (from 1540 to 1556).
1638 - Shah Jahan built the seventh city of Delhi, which served as the capital of the Mughal Empire from 1638 and is today known as the “Old City” or “Old Delhi”.
1737 - Maratha forces sacked Delhi, following their victory against the Mughals in the First Battle of Delhi.
1739 - The Mughal Empire lost the huge Battle of Karnal in less than three hours against the Persian army. After that invasion, Delhi was completely sacked and looted, carrying away immense wealth, including the Peacock Throne, the Daria-i-Noor, and Koh-i-Noor.
1752 - A signed treaty made Marathas the protectors of the Mughal throne in Delhi.
1757 - The city was sacked again by the forces of Ahmad Shah Durrani, although it was not annexed by the Afghan Empire and being its vassal state under the Mughal emperor. Then the Marathas battled and won control of Delhi from the Mughals.
1803 - During the Second Anglo-Maratha War, the forces of British East India Company defeated the Maratha forces in the Battle of Delhi.
1857 - During the Indian Rebellion, Delhi fell to the forces of East India Company after a bloody fight known as the “Siege of Delhi”.
1858 - The city came under the direct control of the British Government. It was made a district province of the Punjab..
1911 - It was announced that the capital of British-held territories in India was to be transferred from Calcutta to Delhi.
1927 - 1931 - The name "New Delhi" was given, and the new capital was inaugurated on February 13, 1931.
1947 - New Delhi was officially declared as the capital of the Union of India after the country gained independence on August 15, 1947. During this, 500,000 Hindu and Sikh refugees, mainly from West Punjab, fled to Delhi, while around 300,000 Muslim residents of the city migrated to Pakistan.
1956 - The States Reorganization Act created the Union Territory of Delhi from its predecessor, the Chief Commissioner's Province of Delhi.
1984 - Delhi was the primary site in the nationwide anti-Sikh pogroms, which resulted in the death of around 2,800 people in the city according to government figures, though independent estimates of the number of people killed tend to be higher. The riots were set off by the assassination of Indira Gandhi—the Prime Minister of India at the time—by her Sikh bodyguards.
1991 - The Constitution (69th Amendment) Act declared the Union Territory of Delhi to be formally known as the National Capital Territory of Delhi. The Act gave Delhi its legislative assembly along Civil lines, though with limited powers.
2001 - The Parliament of India building in New Delhi was attacked by armed militants, killing six security personnel. India suspected Pakistan-based Jihadist militant groups were behind the attack, which caused a major diplomatic crisis between the two countries.
2005 - 2008 - There were further terrorist attacks in Delhi, resulting in a total of 92 deaths.
2020 - Delhi witnessed the worst communal violence in decades. The riots, caused mainly by Hindu mobs attacking Muslims, killed 53 people - two-thirds were Muslims and the rest, Hindus.