Exploring Penrith, England
Time needed in this town: 1-2 nights
Blackbeard and I drove from Glasgow to Liverpool, in a driving rain, due to the hurricane in Nova Scotia, which makes a long drive, longer. Add to it trying to find a quick bite to eat and it makes for a long day! Searching for gluten-free-friendly places is not an easy task and certainly, we didn’t have much hope… until we came across a little place in Penrith, England.
The below information is a complete guide of the best places to stay, the top rated places to dine and drink, and all there is to see and do. We’ve also included a summary of the history of this quaint town!
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Where to Stay
Askham Hall - Once the medieval family home of the Earls of Lonsdale, it boasts a Michelin-starred restaurant, Allium.
Stafford Place - Built in the 1800's this hotel is set in the grounds of Greystoke Castle.
Where to Dine & Drink
1863
For over 150 years, 1863 has quite literally been a cornerstone of the village. The property is set in the heart of Pooley Bridge, a pretty village on the shores of Ullswater in the Lake District. It was built first as the village blacksmith and later it became the post office. It is now an award-winning restaurant.
Chapter 12 Coffee Rooms
Serving Hot Breakfasts, Hot & Cold Lunches, Teas, Coffees & Home Made Cakes.
Four & Twenty
Seasonal, à la carte & fixed price menus in a casual setting with modern, rustic interior details.
Garden Tea Room
A great selection of teas, sandwiches, and biscuits.
Just Greek
Serving authentic Greek food. You are also able to order online for delivery!
King Arms
Serving homemade traditional pub food.
La Casita
Tapas & paella furnished in a laid-back restaurant, plus traditional Spanish spirits & beer.
Mill Yard Cafe
After a bit of a crazy drive down narrow roads, through farms, we came to the Millyard Cafe - a quaint, two-story cafe that felt straight out of an old English fairytale. The gluten-free menu was astounding - we recommend the quiche, fish and chips, and sticky toffee pudding.
Three Crowns tea shop
Friendly, family run cafe. Serving breakfasts, coffee, lunches and snacks. All homemade using local ingredients.
OUR TAKE: It is a wonderful hidden gem in the village of Penrith. They do serve outstanding, homemade food, including wonderful baked potatoes with sumptuous toppings. NOTE: They are very gluten-free-friendly!
Xaviers
Serving tapas and an extensive wine list.
Things to See & Do
Aira Force
The most prized of the Lake District’s waterfalls, the 21-metre Aira Force is in a National Trust park on the west side of Ullswater. You can appreciate the power of the Aira Force from two stone bridges, one at the top and one at the foot.
Beacon Hill
Beacon Hill is named for a signal beacon, lit during war and other emergencies. This was first built in the 16th-century reign of Henry VIII, while the current pyramidal sandstone monument is from 1719. It’s about an hour hike, roundtrip, and well worth it for the views.
Brougham Castle
Built in the 13th century, the castle was abandoned some 300 years ago but you can still walk the grounds and take in the ruins, along the water.
Dalemain Mansion & Historic Garden
Dalemain has a bold Palladian facade from 1744. But this conceals a much older building, with parts from the 14th and 16th centuries linked by quirky stairways and little passages. The house is open Sunday - Thursday between March and October, and has stayed largely the same since the 18th century.
Hallin Fell
An easy 30-minute walk to the top, you can take in the views of the eastern Lake District, encompassing the High Street, Blencathra, Helvellyn peaks, and of course Ullswater. Park at the parish church of St. Peter near the southern foot, and on the way, you’ll be able to look back at the spectacular Martindale fells.
Hutton-in-the-Forest
This house evolved from a Medieval pele tower to something far more grand with each generation. Hutton-in-the-Forest has been the seat of the Fletcher-Vane family since 1605 and opens for visits on Wednesdays, Thursdays, Sundays and Bank Holiday Mondays in spring and summer. Here, you’ll take a journey through the centuries, admiring the gallery from the 1630s, the hall built in 1680, which is hugged by the Cupid Staircase. The gardens are open throughout the season, apart from Saturdays, and have 17th-century terraces and a walled garden from the 1730s.
Keswick Town
This town has become the major center for tourism in the Northern part of the Lake District. It offers lots of different activity opportunities, from shops and restaurants, to museums and boating trips around lake Derwentwater. It’s a popular starting point for the Walla Crag Walk.
Long Meg & Her Daughters
This Neolithic stone circle (about 4,000 years old) is the second largest in the UK, measuring more than 100 metres across. There are 59 stones here, 27 of which are upright, and the largest of these is the sandstone monolith, “Long Meg”. This is etched with megalithic art in the form of rings, spirals and ovoids. It’s believed to be a burial place and potentially used for ritualistic gatherings and for trade. The name comes from a local legend that claims the circle is a coven of witches turned to stone.
Lowther Castle & Gardens
The Lowther family lived at this mansion for centuries until they had to leave for financial reasons after the Second World War. At that time the roof was removed, the gardens became overgrown and the Gothic Revival property began to disintegrate until a conservation plan was put in place at the start of the 2000s. The castle is now a visitor attraction, and you can come to view the Gothic arches, ornamental crenellations, towers, vaulted galleries and pinnacles.
Penrith Castle
The castle went up in the 14th century to protect this region from Scottish attacks, and later became a grand fortified house. In the 17th century, it took a massive hit during the Civil War. You can still walk the grounds.
St. Andrew’s Church
The oldest part is the tower is from the 12th century, the nave dates back to the 1720s, and the stained glass window installed in the 1870s,
Ullswater
Boat trips have been offered at Ullswater since 1855 and the oldest boat in this fleet, the Lady of the Lake, was launched in 1877. The steamers are the best way to see Ullswater, and call in at Glenridding, Howtown and Aira Force.
A History Summary
The Neolithic (c. 4500–2350 BCE) or early-Bronze Age (c. 2500–1000 BCE) - Sites have been found at nearby Mayburgh Henge, King Arthur's Round Table, Little Round Table, Long Meg and Her Daughters, and Little Meg, and the stone circles at Leacet Hill and Oddendale are some of the visible traces of "one of the most important groups of prehistoric ritual sites in the region." In addition, there have been various finds (stone axes, hammers, knives) and carvings found in the Penrith area.
Roman times - Penrith, itself, was not established by the Romans, but they recognized the strategic importance of the place, especially near the confluence of the rivers Eamont and Lowther. As such, the Roman fort of Voreda occupied the site now known as Old Penrith, five miles north of the town.
7th century - The region was invaded by the Angles, a Germanic tribe which moved west from Northumbria.
870 - Rhe area became subject to Viking settlement by Norse from Dublin and the Hebrides, along with Danes from Yorkshire.
July 12, 927 - The Eamont Bridge was the scene of a gathering of kings from throughout Britain to determine kingdom boundaries. It was then that Penrith was effectively held by the Scottish king as overlord of the Strathclyde Cumbrians, until the Norman takeover in 1092.
Mid-13th century - King Edward I took Penrith and the other manors back into Crown possession. Edward also established an Augustinian Friary in 1291, which was later dissolved in 1537.
1296 - 1322 - With the Wars of Scottish Independence, Penrith suffered destruction by Scottish forces (William Wallace), 1314, 1315–1316 and 1322 (Robert the Bruce).
14th century - Climate change caused poor harvests, prompting Penrith to go from great economic growth in the early 14th century, to poverty by the third decade.
The mid-16th century - 1598 - Many protestant gentry moved to Penrith, but the Bubonic plague caused some 615 deaths from 1597–1598.
1617 - 1623 - James VI and his entourage of 800 visited Brougham Castle, which boosted commerce. However, Penrith's crossroads position on the North-South and East-West routes made it vulnerable to starving vagrants bringing disease. This plus a national food shortage led to a typhus epidemic in 1623.
1642–1646 - In the first civil war, General Leslie took over Brougham Castle and Penrith became a supply center for Parliament.
1648 - In the second civil war, Brougham and Penrith castles were strategic assets.
1699 - During the Commonwealth, Presbyterian "Godly rule" was administered at St Andrew's Church. Meanwhile, Penrith benefited from work on restoration of Brougham and other castles, and by charitable donations undertaken by Lady Anne Clifford. The gradual rise in religious toleration eventually saw the establishment by the Quakers.
1854 - 1878 - The market rights were leased by the Board of Health until they were eventually bought outright in 1878 for £4140.
1894 - 1974 - Penrith was an urban district until it was merged with the Eden District.
1920s - Penrith Castle came into council possession, its grounds becoming a public park.
2023 - Penrith has had two levels of local government – Westmorland and Furness unitary authority.