Exploring Reykjavik, Iceland in the winter
Note: This post has been updated on March 11, 2024.
Time needed to see the sites in and around Reykjavik: 4-5 nights
I looked up “best places for New Year’s” and Reykjavik was in the top five - the bonfires, fireworks, Nordic traditions, and the high possibility of seeing the Northern Lights were all reasons why people love it so much. Despite the Arctic temperatures, it was the most magical time to go.
Click here to discover more about my experience with an Icelandic New Year’s celebration, including the Northern Lights!
The below information is a complete guide of the best places to stay, the top rated places to dine and drink, and all there is to see and do in and around Reykjavik. We’ve also included transportation tips, as well as a summary of the history of this beautiful country!
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Where to Stay
I chose the City Center Hotel, for four nights at $1000 total (includes all taxes and other fees). It’s a wonderful hotel with comfortable furnishings however, it is in the center of town, which means it backs up to a lot of the nightlife. Late night sounds can be loud.
Below are other options I recommend (I highly recommend renting a flat or home, as opposed to a hotel):
Where to Dine & Drink
Here are some tips for navigating restaurants in Iceland:
The cost of eating/drinking out - Food and drink are very expensive as almost everything has to be shipped in (pre-drinking at home, before a night out, is popular there).
Opening times - Most cafes do not open until 9am or 10am and they shut down by dinner time. Many of the restaurants do not open until lunch time and stay open until about 11pm.
Closing times - Cafes close at dinner time, bars close at 1am, and restaurants close at 11pm.
Reservations - Restaurants do not usually take online reservations - you must call or email them.
Meat preparation - Restaurants will never ask you how you want your meat cooked - it will be medium unless otherwise specified. Note that “medium” in most other countries is very rare. I ask for “medium well”, which makes it perfect.
Common Icelandic food - Fish (including shark and mink whale), reindeer, lamb, and horse are all staples of Icelandic menus. They also eat a lot of wheat products and Skyr - high-protein yogurt made of whey. Since I have Celiac, it was somewhat difficult to find gluten-free food.
10-11
10-11 is a grocery store and it’s open 24/7 there. It sells nearly everything you need and is perfect for keeping food expenses down. I highly recommend going there for snacks, lunches, and beverages, such as soda and water. Make sure to go more mid-day for the bulk of items. Late at night, usually chips and soda are left.
Apotek
Per their description, “A “casual/smart" place where delicious meals are offered in a lively atmosphere and cool surroundings.” The menu is a fun mix of Icelandic and European cuisine with a fun Argentinian grill. There are a number of small dishes on the menu that are especially recommended for guests to taste and enjoy together.
The food and atmosphere are incredible. I ordered the small plate of short ribs and a side of garlic and rosemary mashed potatoes. I also ordered a Vanilla Espresso martini.
Babalu (Cafe)
Known for their world-famous cheesecake!
Bæjarins Beztu Pylsur
A family-run hot dog place, since 1937, it has become a cult-favorite among anyone in the world that has had it. The signature hot dog is rather simplistic, consisting of a bun, a sausage, and some condiments. What makes it unique is that the meat in its pylsur (sausage) is mostly lamb - a quintessential ingredient in Icelandic cuisine, with some pork and beef added to it. The options for the condiments include ketchup, sweet mustard, rémoulade, crisp fried onion, and raw onion. While locals often order eina með öllu, or “one with everything,” a hot dog with mustard only is called a “Clinton” - reference to the U.S. president who ordered just that while visiting Iceland in 2004 (for a UNICEF conference).
TIP: The flagship stand on Tryggvagata is open from 9am to 1am on Sunday through Wednesday, until to 2am on Thursdays, and to 6am on Friday and Saturday. This location has pictures of its famous visitors.
THEY ARE NOT GLUTEN-FREE!
Foodcellar
The Matarkjallarin is a grill & cocktail bar in the basement of a 160-year-old building in the center of Reykjavík. Brasserie cuisine dominates the cooking, where the focus is on Icelandic ingredients.
Food Walk
Discover Reykjavik’s foodie scene and sample delicious Icelandic cuisine on this walking tour. Visit a variety of Reykjavik eateries from restaurants to food trucks, and sample a selection of traditional dishes and street food favorites including Icelandic cheeses, lamb, homemade ice cream, and the famous Icelandic hot dogs. Along the way, pass by landmarks such as Hallgrimskirkja, the Harpa concert hall, and Parliament House.
Grillmarkadurinn
This is my top choice of Icelandic restaurants to dine at. The atmosphere and the food are both amazing. I ordered the peanut steak (vegan dish) and corn on the cob (both were unbelievable). But what “stole the show” was the Icelandic ice cream assortment for dessert - a must-have!
TIP: DO NOT LEAVE without buying their Icelandic salt!
Hard Rock Cafe
If you’re craving good ol’ fashioned American food, there’s no place like Hard Rock!
Note: It’s one of few restaurants open on New Year’s Day AND they give you a bonus meal to take home (due to food being in short supply after the holiday).
Holt
Inside Hotel Holt, it serves wild game dishes that are a favorite of Icelandics.
Kaffibarinn
The most well-known bar in Iceland, it's partly owned by a famous British singer and was also the setting for a well-known Icelandic movie. It's a cozy and quaint hole-in-the-wall place, until its peak season. Then, it becomes a fun nightclub.
Kol
Weekend bottomless brunch, a tasting menu & cocktails offered in an upscale destination.
Kopar
Per their description, “We aim to provide an Icelandic dining experience that pays homage to traditional ingredients, while also surprising our guests.” It’s a beautiful restaurant, right on the bay.
KRÖST
Relaxed grill & wine bar featuring small plates, burgers & hearty traditional mains.
Messinn
Per their description, “Messinn is a seafood restaurant, located in the heart of Reykjavík and now also in the center of Selfoss. We specialize in fresh seafood, which we serve for lunch and dinner, every day of the week. Messan's specialties are undoubtedly our fish pans, on which we serve freshly cooked fish straight from the kitchen, together with butter-fried potatoes and vegetables that melt in your mouth - perfect for sharing.”
TIP: If you’re not a seafood person, go there for drinks and dessert.
Reykjavik Kitchen
Per their description, “Reykjavík Kitchen is a family owned and run restaurant in the heart of Reykjavík. We pride ourselves in providing a friendly atmosphere and good local food. Our main focus is serving fresh Icelandic fish and meat.”
Rosenberg (Cafe)
Cafe Rosenberg is a jazzy little joint in downtown Reykjavik, and one of the city's most popular live music venues. There's something happening there every single night. The interior is beautifully decorated with warm colors, paintings, and lots of wood, very reminiscent of the 20'th century jazz clubs. It's not all jazz though, you will find all kinds of concerts in any genre.
Sæta Svínið Gastropub
This is a great, cozy tavern that serves all sorts of grilled meats and is known for their Icelandic beer selection. I was thankful they got me in last minute!
Sjávargrillið
Serving traditional seafood dishes.
Snaps
Mellow bistro with a conservatory specializing in French cuisine & cocktails, plus vegan options. TIP: It’s GREAT for brunch!
The Laundromat Cafe
A cafe that is also a laundromat! They have a wonderful international breakfast and are also open on major holidays for both food and laundry!
Things to See & Do
Day Trips
There’s so much to see around Iceland that it’s very advisable to take one or two during your stay. Below is a list of the most popular:
Click on the link above to see my full experience at the Blue Lagoon. In that post, I provide advice on how to navigate purchasing tickets, as well as what to take advantage of there.
Click on the link above to see my full experience at the Golden Circle. In that post, I include links to reputable tour guides.
Spend time in an ice cave and get up close to the blazing blue formations inside Vatnajökull (Vatna Glacier). Trek with an expert guide across the ice cap of Iceland’s most voluminous glacier — and Europe’s largest. Bring your camera for plenty of photo ops of what will unquestionably be an unforgettable experience. Numbers are limited on this tour to ensure a small-group experience.
Iceland South Coast (Full Day, Small Group)
Travel by luxury minibus through a volcanic landscape along the south coast of Iceland. See the magnificent waterfalls of Seljalandsfoss and Skógafoss, the black-sand beaches of Reynisfjara, and the breathtaking Sólheimajökull glacier on this day trip from Reykjavik. Spot puffins, if you’re lucky, and get a look at Eyjafjallajökull volcano, which erupted in 2010. Round-trip hotel transport is provided.
Icelandic Horseback Riding Tour
Hop on a small, sturdy, Icelandic horse - a breed originally brought here by the Vikings, and enjoy a relaxing ride through lava-laden scenery past mountains, lakes, and moors. Your ride is matched to your ability and led by an instructor. Hot drinks, riding equipment, and guidance is included.
Hike to Iceland's newest volcano on this unique custom tour from Reykjavik, specially designed for geologist enthusiasts. With the expertise of a local guide, you will see volcanic craters, lava fields, fumaroles, and an amazing view of the newest volcanic land in Iceland. This is a private tour (only for you), and no other participants will be on the tour—you won't be part of a larger group. This adventure has earned a 5-star rating and a place among Europe's Top 10 adrenaline experiences. Choose your convenience - opt for pickup from your accommodation or self-drive to our designated meeting point.
Snorkel Between Tectonic Plates
Silfra is one of the world’s most dramatic snorkeling sites—it’s a glacier meltwater-filled rift formed by the drift of the Eurasian and North American tectonic plates. This tour makes snorkeling the rift as easy as possible by including a guide, dry suit and snorkeling equipment, and Silfra entrance fees.
Historical Exploration
Ingibjörg H. Bjarnason Statue
Standing outside the Alþingishúsið building, the Ingibjörg H. Bjarnason statue is indedication to her namesake - the first woman to become a member of the Althing (from 1922 to 1927).
Born in 1867, she aspired to be a gymnast and was the first Icelander in history to study gymnastics in Denmark. She returned to her country at the age of 26 and started teaching gymnastics at a children’s school in Reykjavík, later becoming a teacher and then principal at the Women’s College.
From 1894 onwards, Bjarnason worked as an active suffragist and eventually became the leader of the Women’s Slate, a precursor to the feminist Women’s List political party, following the success of the women’s suffrage movement. She received a bit of criticism from fellow feminists, but she continued to lead the women’s liberation movement after retiring from politics.
Piece of Berlin Wall
A 4-ton section of the Berlin Wall, gifted from the New West Berlin art gallery in Germany to commemorate the 25th anniversary of German reunification. it was erected in 2015.
The location of this piece of wall is significant in that in 1986, a historic meeting between Ronald Regan and Michael Gorbachev took place in the Hofdi House, which is in the same small park as the wall section. This meeting is said to have lead to the end of the Cold War and ultimately, to the possibility of Germany’s reunification.
HOW TO FIND: In the small park that surrounds the Hofdi house, this building can be best found by walking between the old harbor and the new harbor along the sea front. It is about halfway between the two.
Religious History
Situated on the hilltop Skólavörðuholt , near the center of Reykjavík, this church is one of the city's best-known landmarks and is visible throughout the city. Commissioned in 1937, State Architect, Guðjón Samúelsson, is said to have designed it to resemble the trap rocks, mountains, and glaciers of Iceland's landscape, in particular, its columnar basalt "organ pipe" formations (such as those at Svartifoss).
Architecturally, Hallgrímskirkja consists of three parts: The tower with the distinctly curved side wings, which house service facilities, a nave in more traditional architecture, and a sanctuary at the other end of the nave, whose cylindrical shape has been described as evoking Viking war helmets. The church also has a 244 ft dome.
It took 41 years to build the church - construction started in 1945 and ended in 1986, but the landmark tower was completed long before the whole church was finished. The crypt beneath the choir was consecrated in 1948, the steeple and wings were completed in 1974, and the nave was consecrated in 1986.
TIP: Make sure to head to the top for 360 views of the city - it’s a small fee for such an incredible view!
The Arts & Sciences
Harpa’s structure consists of a steel framework clad with geometric-shaped glass panels of different colors. The building was originally part of a redevelopment of the Austurhöfn area dubbed, “World Trade Center Reykjavík”, which was temporarily abandoned when the 2008 Icelandic financial crisis took hold. The development was originally intended to include a 400-room hotel, luxury apartments, retail units, restaurants, a car park and the new headquarters of Icelandic bank, Landsbanki. These related developments were put on hold, but resumed construction by 2018 and as of today, is complete. The concert hall opened in 2011.
The glass façade of the building consists of 714 LED lights, 486 in the eastern part of the building and 228 in the western part. Designed by Olafur Eliasson, in 2021, he made 12 new light works to exhibit on the glass, one to be exhibited for each month of the year. In 2014, Eliasson first granted other artists access to the building's advanced lighting system, when artists, Atli Bollason and Owen Hindley, exhibited the interactive art piece PONG, based on the classic arcade game, “Pong”, for the city's Culture Night.
Icelandic Phallological Museum
The worldʹs only genuine penis museum, The Icelandic Phallological Museum, is dedicated to collecting, studying and presenting actual phalluses and all things phallic.
Would you believe it’s a highly popular museum?
Icelandic Punk Museum
In November 2016, a once public toilet (known as “ground zero” to locals)was reopened in downtown Reykjavik to tell the story of Icelandic punk.
Down below Bankastræti, this small museum is dedicated to the Icelandic punk scene, from its beginnings in the late 1970s. all the way to the break-up of the Sugar Cubes in the early ’90s. The exhibits are in the former stalls and wash basins, jam-packed with collections of photos, posters, hand-bills, instruments, stage equipment, and streaming videos of classic club shows. You can also listen to music through the pull down headphones or try on the punk jackets.
FUN FACT: Sex Pistols frontman, Johnny Rotten, was on hand to kick it off.
Monument to the Unknown Bureaucrat
Next to a duck pond, stands a statue of a man holding a briefcase, walking toward city hall - a large slab of Icelandic volcanic basalt sits where you would expect to see a torso and head. The unique statue was sculpted by Magnús Tómasson in 1994.
HOW TO FIND: The monument is a short walk from the Reykjavík Official Tourist Information Centre.
Perlan
In 1939, a single hot water tank was constructed on Öskjuhlíð hill in Reykjavík, where Perlan stands today. It is 61 meters above sea level, which gives enough pressure to push water up to the 10th floor of a building, 38 meters above sea level. That sufficed to supply water anywhere in Reykjavík – even to the hill where Hallgrímskirkja church stands today. In the next two decades, five more tanks rose beside the first one. They were torn down and rebuilt in the late 1980s.
In 1991, those six hot water tanks became the base of Perlan - a building that consists of a glass dome, resting on top of six district heating tanks. Four of them are still in use, one hosts an ice cave, and one has been turned into a planetarium.
The planetarium houses a Northern Lights show called, “Áróra”, an ice cave, which is 100 meters long and is built from around 400 tons of ice, snow, and ash; an interactive glacier exhibit, Lava Show, a water exhibition, Latrabjarg Cliff, a 10m-high replica of one of Europe‘s biggest seabird cliffs, a virtual fish tank, Forces of Nature Exhibit, Iceland's geological story timeline, a 360° observation deck, the ice cream parlor, the Restaurant and Café, and the gift shop.
The Raven’s Nest
Icelandic Director, Hrafn Gunnlaugsson, has collected thrown out shiny objects and discarded scrap metal, on his oceanside property in Reykjavik, creating a makeshift sculpture garden. The garden and home are consistently evolving and incorporate new finds, such as a rusted-out buoy eyeball and rebar cross, into the surreal landscape.
The Sun Voyager
In 1986, the district association of the west part of the city funded a competition for a new outdoor sculpture to commemorate the 200th anniversary of the city of Reykjavík. Árnason's Sun Voyager won the competition, and the aluminium model was presented to the city for enlargement. The full-sized Sun Voyager was eventually unveiled on Sæbraut on the birthday of the city of Reykjavík, August 18, 1990.
The work is constructed of stainless steel and stands on a circle of granite slabs, surrounded by "town-hall concrete".
Unique Experiences
Álfaskólinn (Elf School)
Fun fact: Road crews in Iceland will sometimes hire folklore experts to determine if certain boulders are homes to elves, and will divert the road around the boulder if it turns out there are little people living within it. Sound crazy? After escaping a car crash unscathed, a member of the Icelandic Parliament had a 30-ton boulder moved to near his home because he believed that the local elves, inside the boulder, used their magic to save him.
With the majority of the population being believers, it’s not a surprise that there is an entire school dedicated to courses on the 13 different types of elves. This school comes with a set of published textbooks, with drawn depictions of these creatures for reference.
The school studies Iceland’s other supernatural fauna as well, such as fairies, trolls, dwarves, and gnomes, but they mainly focus on elves, because they are the most commonly believed in and “seen.”
The school also offers five-hour classes for curious travelers, which include a tour of hidden folk habitats and ends with coffee and pancakes with the school’s headmaster. He, alone, makes the experience worthwhile, as his genuine belief in elves and pointed sense of humor provide quality entertainment, regardless of whether you believe his stories or not. At the end, you will have a physical diploma to bring home.
TIP: If you don’t want to spend 5 hours in class, you can take a tour and hear the stories instead! Click here for that experience.
Fischersund
Tucked down Fischersund is a shop selling perfumes, beauty products, candles, and home goods, infused with Icelandic essential oils. Down a set of stairs, near the register, you’ll find mini museum, documenting Icelandic history through… smell.
What makes this place so interesting is that you look at photos and stories of moments in history of Iceland, and smell the glass jar associated with that picture - it attempts to recreate the complete scene or story in your own mind.
FUN FACT: This shop is located in the former music studio of Jónsi, the frontman of the Icelandic band, Sigur Rós. Jónsi founded the store with his family.
TIP: Climb the ladder in the back left corner of the shop and glance through a small window to see hidden video art by his sister, Sigurrós (the namesake of her brother's band).
Husky Sledding
Explore the beauty of Iceland at a much faster pace than a walking tour with this Greenlandic husky sledding experience (if you’ve never done a sled ride before, these dogs LOVE to run and is not harmful in any way). The tour can take place on either snow or dry land (depending on the season), and a guide joins you so you don't have to worry about navigating. Ride through the beautiful fields of Iceland's South Coast on a sled, and enjoy time for a photo break along the way.
Skemmtigarðurinn Grafarvogi
While this pirate-themed 18-hole, mini-golf course is common across the world, Skemmtigarðurinn Grafarvogi has a naturally weathered seaside town look that is quite unique. Small touches like a whale-shaped hole, a small-town façade, borders made of heavy rope, and boat wreckage combine to tie the overall aesthetic together.
The facility also includes paintball, footgolf, paintball, outdoor laser tag, axe throwing, archery tag, karaoke, and more.
NOTE: This is a weather-dependent facility.
Sky Lagoon
Closer into the city, the construction of Sky Lagoon began in early 2020 and was completed in 2021. The design was inspired by the Icelandic geography and uses grey-blues, deep greens, whites, and creams to copy the landscape.
Some elements of Sky Lagoon were inspired by Icelandic nature and heritage, such as the turf house, turf walls, and plunge pool. Elements of the facility include a cave tunnel entrance to a hot springs soaking pool and a cold plunge.
Walking Tours
Laugavegur
Easily one of the best shopping streets in Reykjavik, even Vogue says so!
Reykjavik Small Group Walking Tour
On this small-group walking tour, limited to 10 people, explore the streets of Reykjavík with your Viking guide and hear the hidden secrets many visitors miss. Discover top attractions including Hallgrímskirkja and enjoy an immersive experience in the culture and traditions of Iceland.
Transportation
GETTING TO/FROM ICELAND
Over Greenland
Flying to/from Iceland isn't all that bad if you know what to expect.
Delays: Note that flight delays are high in the winter, due to weather out of Iceland. I was 5 1/2 hours delayed getting there and one-hour delayed getting back to the U.S.
Time: Flight time is also something to think about. It was 5 hours to get to Iceland (from BWI) but given weather patterns and the jet stream, it took me almost 7 hours to get home.
Visas: They do not require a customs form to enter and if you're a U.S. Citizen, do not need a Visa.
Duty Free: When you get to Iceland, GET DUTY FREE LIQUOR ON THE WAY OUT OF THE AIRPORT! I cannot stress this enough. Drinks are anywhere from $13 - $25 per drink at bars, restaurants, and clubs. For $78, I got two splits of Moet, a half liter of Black Label, and a half liter of Icelandic vodka.
Transportation in and around reykjavik
Airport Transfers
One-way private transfer - To/from the airport is $118 (click here to book)
Roundtrip private transfer - To/from the airport is around $320 (click here to book)
Grayline buses - Takes a bit longer, but is far cheaper. For $30pp one way, they will pick you up at the airport (along with other guests) and transfer you to smaller buses at their terminal. Those smaller buses take you to your hotel.
Renting a car - Icelandics drive on the right side of the road, so driving a rental car shouldn't be difficult. As long as you have a valid driver’s license, they will permit you to rent a car. Note that sost of the roadways are made with heating elements, which minimizes the need to plow in the winter. It's still icy in the winter, though, so if you're not a proficient winter driver, don't do it.
What Else You Need to Know
THE BASICS
Iceland is a very clean and VERY SAFE place to be. Icelanders are respectful of each other, everyone is employed, and generally, everyone is very healthy and happy. It's also not as inhabited as many other countries are, which makes it a peaceful and enjoyable place to be. Below, are some quick things to know about the country:
Currency - Iceland uses the Krohn (ISK), though everyone expects credit cards to be taken - cash is rarely exchanged.
Weather - They can have all four seasons in one day (packing can be a pain). In the winter, I experienced temps from -3 degrees - 40 degrees Fahrenheit .
Sunrise - In the winter, they have five hours of daylight. In January, the sun rises at 11:30am and sets at 4:30pm. In the summer, they have 21 hours of daylight.
Water - The water might smell funny, due to the Volcanic land, but it is completely drinkable. In fact, it's the first tap water I've had that I've actually drank a lot of!
Earthquakes - They also get a lot of earthquakes, given that they are between two tectonic plates. Almost all of the buildings can withstand up to a 9 on the Richter scale.
Voltage - They use the standard Euro plug for their electronics. Make sure you have a voltage converter with the two-prong plugs.
WHAT TO PACK
I cannot stress this enough: WARM CLOTHES AND LAYERS ARE YOUR FRIEND!!! When I did the Golden Circle Trip, I was in yoga pants, long underwear pants, and two pairs of sweatpants (I don't own snow pants but definitely will if I do this again). On the top, I was in a long underwear shirt, another long-sleeved shirt, my Lululemon jacket, and my hooded puffer coat. In addition to this, I wore a pair of boot socks and a pair of knee-high socks, with my Sorel arctic snow boots. On my head, I had a lined, wool hat and my hood. On my hands, a thinner pair of gloves under my ski gloves. Around my neck, a scarf that could wrap around my face if need be. While this sounds ridiculous, you have to remember you are actually in the Arctic.
Walking around the city could be just as cold with me wearing 2-3 layers everywhere. My suggestion for packing for a 4-day winter trip (guy or girl), is the following:
At least two pairs of socks for each day
Snow boots and hiking boots
If you decide to go to nicer restaurants, bring a pair of nicer boots or shoes that have a tread on them
Snow pants (if you have them)
A pair of long underwear (top and bottom) for each day
A pair of leggings or yoga pants to put over the long underwear each day
A pair of sweatpants that can last you 2-3 days
A hooded sweatshirt/ regular sweatshirt that can last you 2-3 days
A long-sleeved, warm shirt for each day
Jeans and a nice, warm sweater for going out in, should you choose to go out to nicer places
Lined beanies or other winter hats for each day
Two pairs of gloves for each day
Three scarves - the backup ones will get wet, trust me
A poncho
A swimsuit if you go to the Blue Lagoon (which I HIGHLY recommend)
A real, waterproof, temperature-proof camera. Phones do not typically survive that kind of cold (the battery dies fast), unless you can find a case that is well-insulated.
