Exploring Applecross Peninsula, Scotland
Time Needed in this Area: 3-4 nights
Home to just a couple of hundred people, and accessed by only two roads, the Bealach pass road from the south and the coast road from the North, this is a haven from the noise and “chaos” of modern life. Applecross is the name for the whole peninsula and the community is made up of the various crofting townships from North to south namely; Ardheslaig, Kenmore, Fearnabeag, Fearnamor, Cuaig, Lonbain, Applecross Bay & Shore St, Milltown, Camusteil, Camusterrach, Culduie, Ard Dubh & Toscaig.
Our time there was nearly indescribable. The mountains plunging into the crystal clear lochs, the wildlife everywhere you look, the incredibly fresh air that you want to bottle up and bring with you everywhere, and the stillness that brings your mind to a much-needed ease are all what makes this place so spectacular.
The below information is a complete guide of the best places to stay, the top rated places to dine and drink, and all there is to see and do. We’ve also included transportation tips, as well as a summary of the history of this stunning respite from busy life!
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Ardheslaig
Ardheslaig is a crofting settlement at the northern end of the Applecross peninsula in the Scottish Highlands. It is 3 miles northwest of Shieldaig on the shores of Loch Torridon. It is described as a "widely dispersed group of houses around the head of an inlet" to the loch and has no shops or local services.
To us, it was the perfect place to unwind and unplug for a few days! See our AirBnb video for more on why it was so perfect.
Where to stay
Tigh A'Mhuillin
When we drove from Ullapool to Ardheslaig, we had no idea just how remote (and beautiful) our AirBnb would truly be. Most of our journey was a single lane road (common in the highlands) and we weren’t too sure if we were going the right way! But, when we pulled into the driveway, we were greeted with not just the most incredible sunset, but also the beautiful peace of the loch and its wildlife.
Over the next few days there, we cooked amazing meals (and ate most of them outside), sipped wine while just staring at the scenery, and took a few walks around the loch. If you can unplug, even for a few days, it is absolutely worth it to stay here.
NOTE: Both the Wi-Fi and the wireless signal are not great. If you need to work during your stay, you should book when you can unplug.
Applecross
Per their site, “We offer a wide range of menu options including Snacks & Sandwiches, Classic Pub Meals, Local Sea Food Options and Daily Specials! We also cater for our younger visitors with kids options, as well as those with specific dietary requirements including vegetarian and vegan dishes.” Reservations are required.
NOTE: They do have a food truck outside as well called, “Inn-Side Out”. The restaurant is closed on Tuesdays.
Applecross Walled Garden
The Big Grill Society
Serving burgers and rolls.
The Junction
Serving pizzas.
Things to See & Do
Applecross Broch
Brochs, which date from around 2,000 years ago (during the Iron Age), were large, thick walled, dry stone towers. They had double walls constructed entirely without cement, with stairs and galleries between the walls given access to upper levels.
In early summer 2005, a team of around 50 people arrived in Applecross to excavate the broch site. It was then confirmed that this was, indeed, a broch. It is now open to visitors.
Applecross Photographic Gallery
The Applecross Photographic Gallery is a photographic gallery, set up in a disused telephone exchange with panoramic views of the Isles of Raasay and Scalpay and the Cuillin of Skye. They exhibit a selection of images of local landscape and wildlife by photographer Jack Marris. Enjoy a free freshly ground coffee while you take in the views.
NOTE: This looks like someone’s home, so it’s easy to miss.
Applecross Sands
Sands beach is approximately 4 miles from Applecross, and is described as the best beach in the area. It was the “home” of TV presenter, Monty Halls, during his popular TV series Great Escape in 2009, with a large sandy beach, sand dune, and shallow sandy bay. On your way back from the beach to the car park you will see a rock shelter which is a Mesolithic dwelling used 9,500 years ago.
Applecross Walled Garden
In the “Where to Dine & Drink” section, you will find a video of their wonderful restaurant. However, did you know you can walk their gardens as well? The history of the gardens dates back to the Victorian era, where it was commonplace to have spectacular gardens. Sadly, it eventually fell in disrepair in the mid-1900s and it wasn’t until some very generous souls got together to slowly bring it back to life.
Clachan Church
Built in 1855, the Clachan Church is a plain harled church. In 1900, it became the United Free Church, followed by the Church of Scotland in 1929.
Heritage Centre
Opened in 2003, the Applecross Heritage Centre is housed in a restored 19th century outbuilding of the old manse and glebe.
The Centre contains historical displays, artifacts, and records of the area.
Village Shop
Given that this part of Scotland is remote and is mostly rental homes, this shop will be a lifesaver on the southern side of the peninsual.
Per their site, “We stock everything you would expect to find in a village shop - and more. As well as the usual newspapers, postcards, souvineers and gifts we have a wide range of fresh fruit and vegetables, groceries, wines and spirits, frozen food and sundry items. If we don't stock it, we will order it for you.”
Lochcarron
Where to stay
where to dine & Drink
Albatross Cafe
Situated on the Lochcarron golf course, they serve sandwiches, burgers/hot dogs, and soups.
Lochcarron Bistro
They serve a variety of meat and seafood dishes. They are not very allergy-friendly.
Spar
A licensed Spar grocery store.
The Old Butchers
Coffee shop and landscape photography in the heart of Lochcarron! They serve fresh coffee and light bites.
Waterside Cafe
Serves locally-sourced and seasonal light bites, hearty breakfast dishes, as well as a wide range of delicious baked goods. They do not cater to gluten-free.
Things to See & Do
Attadale Gardens
The 20-acre garden offers a variety of water gardens, hidden sculptures, views of the herb and Japanese gardens. If you would like to purchase plants, you will have the opportunity to from the polytunnel in the kitchen garden.
Balnacra Pottery
This pottery shop is part store, part classes, part studio! Vicky, the owner, specializes in the ancient history of the Highlands, which many of her designs, as well as her process, reflect this.
Calum’s Seal Trips
Your experienced guide and crew will take you aboard the Sula Bheag vessel for a 1-hour sea safari, providing you with the best views of the water of Loch Carron and the chance to spot and photograph seals, otters, dolphins and porpoises. You will also pass Duncraig Castle and Heron Island, as well as see the Applecross mountains in Wester Ross, the Cuillin mountains on the Isle of Skye, and the Torridon mountains. The trip finishes with a tour around the harbor and the opportunity to take pictures of Plockton from the water.
Carron Pottery
Originally an old school and schoolhouse, dating from 1860, Carron Pottery was converted into a pottery shop in the 1970s and over the last 30 years, has been owned by Rob and Jan Teago. Rob works as the full-time potter and Jan manages the shop. The pottery business has developed by the introduction of new colors, patterns and glazes and incorporating local resources such as using marine clay from the River Carron.
They also sell a variety of other local Scottish-made items.
Freedom Framery & Gallery
Freedom Framery & Gallery craft exquisite, bespoke picture frames that transform your cherished memories into timeless works of art. Note: You can purchase the frames and frame your photos yourself, if you choose.
Kyle Railway Line
Featured on Michael Palin’s TV show ‘Great Railway Journeys of the World’, the train passes through the Lochcarron area, traveling from Inverness to Kyle of Lochalsh. It takes 45 minutes from Lochcarron (boarding from the Strathcarron Railway Station).
Lochcarron Golf Club
Lochcarron is a nine-hole golf course measuring roughly 3,605 yards and is suited to golfers of all stages. It does provide some unusual challenges to golfers, such as avoiding the lochside on the first few holes and playing against the sometimes strong winds.
Lochcarron Heritage Weavers Shop
Locharron Heritage Weavers Shop has a wide range of tartans, all woven within their mill in Selkirk, as well as luxury knitwear, kilts, and tweed clothing complemented beautifully with just the right accessories. They stock high-quality Scottish products in a variety of natural fibers including wool, cashmere, lamora, mohair and lambswool. They also take bespoke requests and can even register a unique tartan design for you!
Strome Castle
Built in the 1400s, Strome Castle was believed to be a tower house, tactically situated to guard the north side of the Strome Narrows, near the mouth of Loch Carron. The castle was seized by different clans over the years and in 1539, was taken over by James V to the Macdonalds of Glengarry. They fought with their neighbors, the Mackenzies of Kintail, to keep control of the castle however, it was eventually blown up by the Mackenzie clan in 1602 after they besieged the castle.
Shieldaig
Built in the early 1800s, the town was specifically designed to train sailors for the Royal Navy. Until the 1960s, it could only be reached by the road from Lochcarron. Today, the local employment is in fishing and tourism. There are salmon farms, nephrops fishing, crabbing, and scallop-hunting.
It’s a charming little town and really wonderful to walk through - there are some great cafes and restaurants, as well as a small grocery store and gas station as well!
Where to Stay
Where to Dine & Drink
Delicious Food Van
Homemade, seafood and meat dishes with gluten-free options!
Nanny’s
Serves sandwiches and baked goods. They have gluten-free options available.
Shieldaig Bar & Coastal Kitchen
A bar and restaurant in Shieldaig with live music and stunning views.
Things to see. & Do
Loch Torridon Smokehouse
Selling nothing but smoked salmon.
Shieldaig outdoor adventures
They provide a range of activities on land and water, including sea kayaking, canoeing, mountain walking, and archery. We also provide a equipment hire service.
Torridon
Where to stay
Where to Dine
1887 Restaurant (guests of Torridon hotel only)
Per their site, “Discover the fresh, vibrant flavours of our 1887 restaurant, a 3 AA Rosette restaurant, where every dish is a masterpiece. Here, the menu tells a tale of the land and the lochs. Many of our ingredients are sourced fresh from the Torridon Farm and Kitchen Garden. “
Gille Brighde Cafe & Restaurant
They serve a variety of seafood, meat, and vegetarian dishes, and are very gluten-free-friendly!
The Wee Whistle Stop
Serving all-day breakfast, juices, smoothies, cakes, and sandwiches.
Torridon Stores & Cafe
They are the local mart that sells groceries, wine, and beer.
Things to see & D0
Archery
A qualified instructor will lead you through your archery session on the grounds of the Torridon Hotel. They cater to individuals, families, or groups and the sport can be enjoyed by men, women, and children of all ages and abilities.
Clay Pigeon Shooting
The company has three traps that give multiple shooting options, so everyone from the beginner to the expert can enjoy their shoot.
Gorge Scrambling
Wear a wet suit, helmet, and a buoyancy aid to scramble over rocks and swim under waterfalls as you navigate your way through the Beinn Damh gorge with a beautiful waterfall to complete the experience.
Mountain Hiking
With a trained guide, you are able to hike three great mountain ranges to the north of Glen Torridon: Beinn Alligin, Liathach and Beinn Eighe. Each contains two Munros (peaks over 3000 feet). To the south lie three further Munros, deep within the Coulin forest. All the hills offer fantastic views of the wild and remote West Highlands. It is meant for intermediate and experienced hikers only.
Snorkeling
Snorkel through stunning bays and sheltered headlands to see all kinds of shell fish, sea urchins, and anemones in crystal clear waters.
Stargazing Experience
The Torridon is amongst the darkest locations on earth making rich views of the Milky Way and thousands of stars possible. This is a bespoke experience that will be customized to fit what you want to get out of it. Click on the link to learn more about the moon schedule and how to book.
Other Areas to Explore
Bealach na Bà is considered the “holy grail” of roads for driving enthusiasts looking to give themselves a challenge.
Set in the Applecross Peninsula, its single road track even features a turn known as ‘the devil’s elbow’(which you can see in the video), which is such a hairpin turn that it’s nearly impossible to make it any faster than snail speed. It also boasts the steepest ascent of any road in the United Kingdom (17% grade) with many hairpin turns up to the 2,054 feet summit. The 11.1-mile track has a max speed of 30 MPH.
NOTE: This is a heavily used road for shipping trucks and other commercial vehicles, which means they drive faster and are aggressive - this also goes for those experienced at driving that road for fun. We highly recommend you avoid this road if you are not comfortable with heights and/or single lane roads, or if you have a camper van!
Cuaig Beach (Cuaig)
Cuaig Beach is a 1.4-mile roundtrip trail near Gairloch, Highlands. Generally considered an easy route, it takes an average of 30 min. to complete. It’s not a busy trail and the beach is perfect for peace and quiet.
Culduie
If you have read the book, His Bloody Project, then you know this fictional story is set in the small crofting village of Culduie. If you like murder mysteries, read the book, then drive or walk past Culduie to see where it was set in!
Kalnakill
Kalnakill is a very small township just south of Cuaig Beach. It’s a pretty drive with some beautiful abandoned crofts worth photographing!
The Bealach Cafe & Gallery (Tornapress)
If you have taken the Applecross pass or are just passing through, north, then the Bealach Cafe & Gallery is a great stop, They serve homemade soup, salads, sandwiches, along with delicious homemade cakes, scones and pancakes.
On the same property as the cafe and gallery, sits the Tornapress House - the famed home of the Kishorn Dwarves, which were made famous by Tom Thumb’s regular appearances in the UK, as dwarfism was not common in the UK, and certainly not common in the Highlands. Naturally, circus companies sent the children many offers, but they settled on a Scottish businessman who put them in front of Queen Victoria at Buckingham Palace. It was after that, that their fame skyrocketed.
Exploring Toscaig
Toscaig is a small, remote village at the southern end of the Applecross peninsula, in Wester Ross, in the Highlands of Scotland. It was once known for their ferry service, linking to Kyle of Lochalsh, operating from 1955 to 1978, and was the only route into Applecross when the road over the Bealach na Bà was closed. Today, it’s a peaceful place to hike around, discover abandoned buildings, and enjoy the scenery.
How to Get Around
By Car
There are two ways of getting to Applecross:
A winding coast road from Shielding, to the north on Loch Torridon, with great views all the way.
The Bealach na Ba (Pass of the Cattle), which is one of the highest and steepest in Britain, reaching 2,053 ft. This is NOT meant for inexperienced drivers. See above in “Things to See & Do” for more on this.
From Inverness
A9 - A835 - A832 0 A890 - A896 until Tornapress where the turn off to The Applecross pass is signposted.
From Fort William
A82 - A87 - A890 - A896 until Tornapress where the turn off to The Applecross pass is signposted.
Flight
There are daily flights from Inverness and Fort William to Strathcarron Airport
Train
There are daily trains from Inverness and Fort William to Strathcarron.
A History Summary
6000 B.C. - Seasonal hunting and fishing were common in Applecross.
671 - St Máelrubai came to Scotland from the mahor Irish monastery of Bangor, Count Down.
672 - He founded Aporcrosan (monastery) in what was then, Pictish territory, and was the monastery’s first abbot.
Early 1000s - It’s believed the Vikings destroyed the monastery.
mid-1600s - The lands (estate) of Applecross came into the possession of Alexander Mackenzie, who died in 1650.
1715 - 1724 - The land was forfeited, due to the uprising in 1715.
1725 - 1850 - The government had great difficulty in obtaining any rents from Applecross, so Alexander’s son, Roderick, bought Applecross back from the government for a sum of £3,777. It was sold to the Duke of Leeds in 1850.
Early 19th century - Many young people went to the east coast or down south to do seasonal agricultural employment or to work on the fishing fleets. Later, it was the ‘merchant navy’ for the men and ‘going into service’.
1817 - A parish church was erected on the site of the early monastery however, a large, unfinished cross slab, standing in the churchyard and three extremely, as well as other fragments still show the evidence of 672, today.
1820s - The first road into Applecross over the famous ‘Bealach’ was built, though it went no further than Applecross Bay.
Early 1860s - The estate was sold to Lord Middleton.
1924 - The estate was sold to the Wills family.
1950s - Bealach Na Bá was finally paved.
1975 - The new coast road was opened.
Late 20th century - Mail and deliveries, via boat, dwindled, due to automobiles being the preferred source of shipping.
Today - The Estate is now owned by the Applecross Trust, a registered Scottish charity with the declared aim of preserving "the special character of the Applecross peninsula in a responsible and progressive manner whilst acknowledging its wilderness heritage and its importance as an area of outstanding natural beauty".