Exploring the Isles of Harris & Lewis, Scotland
TIME NEEDED IN THIS ISLE: 3-4 NIGHTS.
We have spent the last few days trying to describe the Isles of Harris and Lewis and it seems to be darn near impossible. These two isles offer vastly different scenery, though together, offer every kind of scenery one could imagine. Want to stare at Caribbean waters? Go to Harris. Want to feel like you’re in a bustling town with a historic feel? Head to Lewis. Want to feel like you’re in Outlander or in a post-apocalyptic movie? Head somewhere in between (especially on a foggy day). Want to experience all of them in the same day? The round trip time is about 4 hours. Truly, there is no other place like it on earth.
The below information is a complete guide of the best places to stay, the top rated places to dine and drink, and all there is to see and do. We’ve also included transportation tips, as well as a summary of the history of this beautiful isle!
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Where to Stay
When booking a trip to these isles, you will tend to see that hotels and resorts are non-existent but in its place are charming B&Bs, cottages, and other more traditional housing that makes for a very charming stay!
The Bunker
This property has an incredible story that cannot be told by anyone else but the owners (click here to read their story and here to read about the property itself) and after reading both, we do not feel like the quick video we put together, does it justice.
My husband suddenly lost his Scottish mum in 2019 and with him spending much of his childhood in Scotland (just outside Glasgow), this stay took on more meaning for him than he realized possible.
Regardless of your own experiences in life, The Bunker will undoubtedly take on a more meaningful tone, knowing these stories, coupled with your own memorable stay.
Other Recommendations
Isle of Harris
Isle of Lewis
Isle of Scalpay
New Haven (Isle of Scalpay)
Stornoway
Where to Dine & Drink
Isle of Harris
Croft36
A small shed-like store that sells freshly baked goods.
Flavour
Per their site, “Within our unique setting every table is a “chef’s table” as you dine in the kitchen. giving you the opportunity to see the meal being plated up live in front of you and interact with Chris and the team throughout the evening who will happily answer any questions about cooking techniques and our wonderful island produce.”
Harris & Lewis Smokehouse
Per the site, “Our Artisan Smokers hand cure only the finest and freshest Scottish Salmon with Sea Salt and Demerara Sugar. We then gently smoke with Scottish whisky cask chippings, infusing our salmon “sides” with a rich flavour evocative of these windswept islands. The result is a culinary masterpiece, virtuous on the palette and stimulating to the senses.”
Isle Coffee Harris
Per their site, “We are a small coffee van built in a 1961 Swift caravan, located on the wild Isle of Harris.”
Isle of Harris Brewery
Per their site, “In our taproom we offer a casual lunch and dinner menu featuring the very best local produce & Scottish pub classics. We can seat up to fifty in our taproom and when the Hebridean weather allows there are extra tables on our shorefront deck.”
Loomished Deli and Coffee Shop
Attached to the Loomshed Hebridean Bewery, this deli and coffee shop serves pastries, sandwiches, salads, and more.
Scarista House
They serve both breakfast and dinner, which is a 3-course meal and quite an experience. They require reservations ahead of time.
Skoon Art Cafe
Serving coffee and fresh-baked pastries.
Temple Harris
A coffee bar that also sells health and wellness goods. NOTE: It is hard to get to, so if the directions look like it’s taking you through a neighborhood, you’re going the wrong way. Go onto their site and look for their address there. This happened to us and we gave up!
Isle of Lewis/Stornoway
Artizan
Serving coffee and baked goods.
NOTE: If you do not make it before noon, they are usually out of nearly all pastries and other baked goods with no more to offer for that day.
Cross Inn
They focus on local Scottish dishes with local produce, seafood, etc. They have their gluten-free options well marked!
Delights
Serving coffee and baked goods.
HS-1 Cafe Bar
La Balena
A family-owned Italian restaurant using fresh, local seafood and ingredients.
Mollan’s Takeaway
Known for their fish and chips. The best part, their chips are in their own dedicated fryer and are 100% gluten-free!
No. 9 By The Harbour
Serving coffees, rolls, and bagel sandwiches.
Stornoway Distillers
Serving fresh, local seafood and BBQ over an open fire, along with a series of other great offerings, including loaded baked potatoes!
The Boatshed
Per their website, “Our menus in the Boatshed have an emphasis on local seafood with local hand-dived scallops, mussels and sustainable creel caught langoustines being just a few of the dishes prepared by our experienced kitchen team. We also have a varied selection of wines available that will satisfy any wine lover and our experienced staff are always on hand to provide recommendations to match your meal selection.”
The Breakwater
Serving sandwiches, toasties, paninis, and pizzas.
The Good Food Boutique
The Good Food Boutique was so great we went here twice! They sell so many wonderful specialty goods, from creating the best charcuterie board for a wine and cheese party, to the ingredients needed for a wonderful dinner, to everything else in between (including great coffee drinks and takeaway). They have wonderful gluten-free selection as well!
Uig Sands Restaurant
Serving fresh catches of the day, along with fresh vegetarian dishes from their garden.
Wobbly Dog of Lewis
Serving coffees and cakes.
Isle of Scalpay
Things to See & Do
Historical Exploration
Amhuinnsuidhe Castle
Originally named Fincastle, the house was built in the Scottish baronial style in 1864–1867 for Charles Murray, 7th Earl of Dunmore (styled Viscount Fincastle until 1845), whose grandfather George Murray, 5th Earl of Dunmore, had purchased the island in 1834.
In 2003, Amhuinnsuidhe Castle Estate purchased the castle and the fishing rights, while the North Harris Estate was transferred into community ownership.
The castle is now operated as a venue for fishing, shooting parties, weddings and corporate events.
Bonnie Prince Charlie monument (Isle of Lewis)
On the July 23, 1745 Prince Charles Edward Stuart (Bonnie Prince Charlie) arrived on the Isle of Eriskay, Outer Hebrides from France. His aim was to regain the throne of Great Britain on behalf of his father, James Stuart. The Highland clan chiefs were dismayed that he had brought no French troops, few arms and very little money to fund his campaign. Some refused outright to give him any support. After failing to convince him of the futility of his mission, some clan chiefs joined him against their better judgement. The consequences were to prove disastrous to the Highland clans and the Gaelic culture.
Butt of Lewis Lighthouse (Isle of Lewis)
Butt of Lewis Lighthouse was built at Butt of Lewis to aid shipping boats in the 1860s. Unusual for a lighthouse in Scotland, it is constructed of red brick and is unpainted. The station was automated in 1998, one of the last to be converted. A modern differential GPS base station has now been sited on a nearby hill to further aid navigation. This hill was also the site for a Lloyd's Signal Station from the 1890s.
Dun CarlowaY Broch (Isle of lewis)
Most brochs were built in the period from 100 BC to 100 AD with Dun Carloway being built around the latter time. It probably got its current name from the Norse Karlavagr ("Karl's bay"), a relic of its time as part of the Kingdom of the Isles. Through the centuries Dun Carloway remained in use until the floor level was too high, due to build-up of the occupation layers.
The broch was occasionally used in later times as a stronghold, including in 1601 by the Morrisons of Ness. The story goes that they had stolen cattle from the MacAuleys of Uig. The MacAuleys wanted their cattle back and found the Morrisons in the broch. One of them, Donald Cam MacAuley, climbed the outer wall, using two daggers, and managed to smoke out the inhabitants by throwing heather into the broch and then setting fire to it. The MacAuleys then destroyed the broch.
Presumably in the 16th century, the walls of the broch were still largely intact. By the middle of the 19th century, a large portion of the top of the wall had disappeared, the stones being re-used in other buildings. Since 1887, restoration has been performed on the broch.
Iolaire Memorial (Isle of Lewis)
In 1919, HMY Iolaire sank in January of that year. The former luxury yacht was repurposed during the war and was transporting surviving soldiers back to the islands’ capital of Stornoway when it struck rocks off Holm Point, within sight of Stornoway. Over 200 people died in the accident and 79 survived.
John Finlay Macleod saw the crash from the shore, grabbed a rope, and jumped in the water to set up a rescue line, saving 40 people. The other 39 either swam to shore or were rescued from the wreck.
The memorial incorporates elements relating to all these stories. The original obelisk dates to 1960 and is joined by a nearby cairn.
Isle of Taransay
Taransay is a 2.5-acre island in the Outer Hebrides of Scotland. It was the host of the British television series, Castaway 2000. Uninhabited since 1974, except for day tourists, Taransay is the largest Scottish island without a permanent population.
Lews Castle (Stornoway)
Built in 1844 - 1851, Lews Castle is a Victorian era castle in Stornoway that was used as a country house for Sir James Matheson, who had bought the whole island a few years previously with his fortune from the Chinese opium trade.
In 1918, the Lews Estate, including the castle, was bought by industrialist Lord Leverhulme from the Matheson family. He gave the castle to the people of Stornoway parish in 1923.
During WWII, the Castle was taken over as accommodation for air and ground crew of 700 Naval Air Squadron, which operated a detachment of six Supermarine Walrus aircraft from a slipway at Cuddy Point in the Grounds. The base was referred to as HMS Mentor.
After the war, the Castle was used for accommodation for students of Lews Castle College in the 1950s. After the accommodation closed, the building was left disused for several decades.
It is now owned by the local council and has been converted into a museum and cafe, with a restored ballroom on the ground floor; and apartments on the floors above.
NOTE: We went there and found it to be more or less and event space where yes, you can walk the ground floor rooms and dine in the cafe, but that’s about it. It will take about 15 minutes of time to explore.
The Blackhouse, Arnol (Isle of Lewis)
Built around 1880, No.42 Arnol gives a special insight into island life. This blackhouse was once the residence of a Hebridean crafting family and their animals who moved out in 1966. Today, it is preserved almost as the family left it.
Religious History
CalLanIsH Standing Stones (Isle of Lewis)
The Callanish Stones were erected in the late Neolithic era and were a focus for ritual activity during the Bronze Age.
They consist of a stone circle of 13 stones with a monolith near the middle. Five rows of standing stones connect to this circle - two long rows of stones running almost parallel to each other, from the stone circle, to the north-northeast, form a kind of avenue. In addition, there are shorter rows of stones to the west-southwest, south and east-northeast. The stones are all of the same rock type, namely the local Lewisian gneiss. Within the stone circle is a chambered tomb to the east of the central stone. There is geophysical evidence of a lightning strike at the center of the structure, dating from the time of construction.
There are several more sites, like these, nearby.
St Clements Church (Isle of Harris)
St. Clements Church is located at the southern end of Harris and is rare in Scotland as it is one of the few examples of a Roman Catholic chapel that escaped defacement during the Protestant Reformation of the 16th century. The church is strongly linked to Clan MacLeod of Harris and several clan chiefs are buried here.
Inside, the church has no seating and no windows, though you can see the centuries-old stone floor beneath your feet. Normally, you can also climb the church tower, via a very dark set of steps to the first floor however, it’s closed for conservation work as of 2024. If it does open again, after the first floor, there are two further levels that are reached, via ladders, that provide some pretty beautiful views!
St Columba's Church Ui (Isle of Lewis)
St Catan, a contemporary of St Columba, established a cell on this site in the 6th century AD, with the Chapel and Churchyard later became the burial site for the Macleod Chiefs of Lewis. The earliest part of the main church is thought to date from the 13th or maybe even the 12th century and the rest of the main part dates from the 14th century. The West Chapel probably dates for the 16th century.
The church contains two principal carved memorial stones - the Roderick Macleod Stone and the Margaret Mackinnon Stone, which are both considered to be among the best examples of monuments of their period in the West of Scotland, as well as other significant memorial stones. The churchyard contains an important number of prominent local burials.
Unique Experiences
Abhainn Dearg Distillery (Isle of Lewis)
Abhainn Dearg distillery (or Red River distillery) is a Scotch whisky distillery in Uig on the west coast of the Isle of Lewis, in the Outer Hebrides. It is the most westerly distillery in Scotland. It commenced operations in 2008, with their first whisky released in 2011.
Callanish Alpacas
Callanish Alpacas is a family-run visitor center located near the Callanish Stones. They allow drop-in visits and informal tours during opening hours. They can also organize pre-arranged appointments out of hours when possible.
The animals you get to interact with: 10 adult female alpacas, one male alpaca, five cria, three Kunekune pigs, eight rare breed four-horned Hebridean sheep, four Zwartble sheep, as well as rare breeds of chickens and ducks!
NOTE: There is no charge for visiting but donations do help take care of all of these amazing animals. There is also a gift shop on site!
Harris Tweed (stornoway)
The islanders of Lewis, Harris, Uist, and Barra had long been recognized for the excellence of their weaving. However, up until the middle of the 19th century, their cloth was used only on their crofts or sold at local markets. In 1846, Lady Dunmore, widow of the landowner of Harris, the Earl of Dunmore, had the clan tartan replicated by Harris weavers in tweed. The results proved so successful that she began to devote much time and effort to marketing the tweed to her wealthy friends. As a result, sales of the island cloth were soon established with merchants across the country.
TIP: At the Harris Tweed Authority in Stornoway, their headquarters, you are able to visit the museum and shop for a wide array of clothing and home furnishings.
NOTE: As seen above, they have an official Harris Tweed store located right around the corner from the museum (as seen in the above pic).
Isle of Harris Distillery (Isle of harris)
Plans for the Isle of Harris Distillery began in 2011 with submission to the local council, Comhairle nan Eilean Siar. With the support of a £2.8 million combined grant from the Scottish Government and the Highlands and Islands Enterprise fund, building commenced in spring 2014. The total investment for the original project was £10 million with the remaining funding coming from private sources. The distillery opened in October 2015 and commenced production on December 17, 2015.
In 2016, BBC Alba produced a TV documentary about the first working year of the distillery. By 2017, the distillery had welcomed over 144,000 visitors, including King Charles (then, Prince of Wales), as well as receiving 17 awards for their products.
In January 2021, the distillery submitted plans to the Council for expansion, including a new maturation warehouse. In July 2021, the distillery launched an eco-friendly initiative to refill bottles. In autumn 2023, the distillery released its first single malt whisky.
St. Kilda
St Kilda is a remote archipelago situated 40 mi. west-northwest of North Uist in the North Atlantic Ocean. It contains the westernmost islands of the Outer Hebrides of Scotland. The largest island is Hirta, whose sea cliffs are the highest in the United Kingdom. Three other islands (Dùn, Soay and Boreray) were also used for grazing and seabird hunting.
The islands' human heritage includes numerous unique architectural features from the historic and prehistoric periods. The medieval village on Hirta was rebuilt in the 19th century however, illnesses brought by increased external contacts through tourism, and the upheaval of WWI, contributed to the island's evacuation in 1930.
The entire archipelago is owned by the National Trust for Scotland. It became one of Scotland's six World Heritage Sites in 1986, and is one of the few in the world to hold joint status for both its natural and cultural qualities. Parties of volunteers work on the islands in the summer to restore the many ruined buildings that the native St Kildans left behind. They share the island with a small military base, established in 1957.
Animal Sancturary
Two different early sheep types have survived on these remote islands: The Soay, a Neolithic type, and the Boreray, an Iron Age type. The islands are a breeding ground for many important seabird species, including northern gannets, Atlantic puffins, and northern fulmars. The St Kilda wren and St Kilda field mouse are endemic subspecies.
The Whale Bone Arch (Isle of Lewis)
The Whale Bone Arch is comprised of two bones that were the lower jaw bones of a beached Blue Whale that came ashore in 1920. The harpoon (in the middle of the arch) was rigged with explosives to help remove the deceased whale, though instead, became lodged in its jaw. The Crofter in charge of this ordeal was lucky to be alive when it finally did detonate.
HOW TO FIND IT: It is situated beside two houses on the A857 at Bragar.
Walking Tours
Beaches
The Isle of Harris is actually known for its beaches (in addition to so many other wonderful things). Their Caribbean-like waters and their shimmering gold sand are two of the many reasons people flock to them (during the warmer months)
Luskentyre Beach is considered not only one of the top-rated beaches in Scotland, it is also one of the most picturesque. It’s a short walk over gentle dune to get to the views, though at low tide, you can walk quite far!
Yes, this is a real image we took on September 17, 2024.
Scarista Beach isn’t just known for it’s Caribbean-colored waters; it’s also known for its golf course! It’s considered one of the most beautiful courses to play in the world.
Other Beaches to Check Out
Dun Eistean (Isle of Lewis)
Dùn Èistean is a multi-period archaeological site on an inter-tidal sea stack on the north east coast of the Isle of Lewis, near the village of Knockaird (Cnoc Àrd, Nis) in the area of Nis (Ness) in the Western Isles of Scotland. It is accorded the status of traditional stronghold of Clan Morrison, once a highly powerful family within the Lordship of the Isles, in local oral tradition. The ruins of two large buildings and groups of interconnecting cellular structures can be seen amongst the grassy tussocks on the top of the island, as well as an artificial pond and a low turf wall enclosing the site. The most prominent feature of the site is a large circular mound of rubble situated on the highest point of the stack, on the north east side of the site. The topographical survey of the site shows these buildings.
The island would have provided all that was needed for occupation, having its own fresh water supply in the form of the artificial pond, and numerous buildings serving an array of purposes, from storage to sleeping quarters.
Gearrannan Blackhouse Village (Isle of Lewis)
Atop a hill, overlooking the Atlantic Ocean, is a quaint cluster of traditional blackhouse stone cottages, which were a part of a once-abandoned Outer Hebridean village. For centuries, Highlanders and their livestock lived in these one-room abodes. They featured packed earth floors, drystone walls, and thatched roofs, offering refuge from the wild North Atlantic weather. A fire in the central hearth kept the space warm, and a divider separated the human inhabitants from their farm animals, which remained huddled at one end of the building.
Between 1945 and 1965, the other crofts and blackhouses on the Isle of Lewis received running water and electricity. People lived in these houses until the 1970s, when the village’s remaining elderly residents moved into more modern homes that didn’t require as much upkeep.
In 1989, the local trust, set to work restoring and preserving these historic buildings. Now, the renovated blackhouses are available as holiday accommodation.
Isle of Great Bernera
The Isle of Great Bernera’s name is Norse in origin and is derived in honor of Bjarnar, father of the Norse Chieftain of Lewis Ketil Bjarnarson (or the Flatneif). The vast majority of place names in the district are similarly Norse, implying extensive Viking settlement.
The most common name on Great Bernera is MacDonald and these are said to be descended from a watchman of the Macaulays of Uig, who gave him the island in return for his services.
After 1962, the island was owned by Robin de la Lanne-Mirrlees, a former Queen's Herald, who was recognized as Laird of Bernera. He eventually inherited the title Prince of Coronata and died in 2012. His home, Bernera Lodge, was at Kirkibost and was inherited by his grandson, Cyran.
Mangersta Sea Stacks (Isle of lewis)
Located on the Isle of Lewis in Scotland’s Outer Hebrides, the Mangersta Sea Stacks are impressive natural pillars that emerge from the North Atlantic Ocean. Formed from erosion-resistant rock, these vertical columns are a striking example of nature’s influence over the landscape. The surrounding area offers dramatic cliffs and powerful waves, attracting photographers, birdwatchers, and those interested in geology. Visitors to this remote spot are met with an unspoiled and genuine experience of Scotland’s rugged coastal environment, complete with a diverse array of local bird species and the ever-changing temperament of the ocean.
The Bridge to Nowhere (Isle of lewis)
In 1918, Lord LeverhulmeI took a boat trip to and fell in love with the islands, so much so that he decided to purchase the land. Reports vary, but it’s believed he purchased the land for £150,000.
Leverhulme was passionate about generating jobs and opportunities for those living in the Western Isles, mainly in fishing. To achieve this, a road was needed from the village of Tolsta to Ness. Once Leverhulme reached Garry beach and designed this bridge, he then realized the difficulty of the task at hand. This was due in large part to the terrain and the harsh weather, so he conceded defeat and ended the project. The bridge was created using concrete, all mixed by hand.
Visitors to the region can drive over the bridge, but it’s almost an immediate turnaround as there is no where to go from there! The bridge is a great spot to take photos.
How to Get Around
Air
If you want to fly, the island's airport lies just a few miles from the town centre, with regular flights with Loganair arriving and departing from Glasgow, Edinburgh, Aberdeen, Inverness, and Benbecula.
Ferry
Go on the Ullapool ferry to Stornoway on Lewis and drive south (the Isles are connected).
Include Harris by Island Hopping, from Barra through South Uist and North Uist to Leverburgh.
Vehicle reservations are recommended on these routes. You can book travel online and when you do, you'll immediately receive an eTicket direct to your inbox - ready to board.
Driving Around the Isles
As you can see in the video above, driving around the Isles of Harris and Lewis can seem pretty straightforward however, they can also keep you on edge. There are some things we’ve learned through our time here:
These isles are mostly made up of locals who are not necessarily keen on tourists. Their roundabouts are tricky, as are their single lane roads.
There are numerous places where sheep and rams roam, which means frequent road crossings, especially at mountain passes.
There can be extremely dense fog in some places, especially crossing from Lewis into Harris and vice versa.
In all of these situations, make sure to remain 100% focused way ahead on the road at all times.
A History Summary
6000 BC - The lands around Stornoway were probably settled around then as there are many monuments which show prehistoric man's presence.
3000 BC - The Callanish Stones in the Loch Ròg area were erected, thus dating from the late Neolithic or the early Bronze Age.
9th century - Norsemen dominated the Isle and eventually converted to Christianity.
13th Century - The Nicholson family built Castle Lewis at Stornoway harbour.
1607 - Stornoway became a burgh of barony.
1844 - 1857 - Sir James Matheson purchased the Island and built Lews Castle between 1847 and 1857.
1831 - The Lewis chessmen, a famous collection of 12th-century chess pieces, carved from walrus ivory and mostly in the form of human figures, were discovered in Uig.
1863 - The town had become a police burgh - the last remains of the Old Castle were removed.
2011 - There is a population of over 21,000.
2017 - Nearly 400 residents of the Isles work for Harris Tweed.
2019 - Isle of Harris Distillery opened.
2020 - Over 900 crofters (small-scale food producers) were recorded.