Exploring Yellowstone, Jackson, & Cody, WY
Note: This post has been updated on May 10, 2022.
Time needed FOR THIS TRIP 3-4 nights
They said Yellowstone couldn't be done in one day, but if you get up early enough and want the “highlights tour”, then it can!
The below information is a complete guide of the best places to stay, the top rated places to dine and drink, and all there is to see and do. We’ve also included transportation tips, as well as a summary of the history of this wonderous park!
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Where to Stay
South Entrance
(to enter the park) - Jackson & Moran, WY
Jackson lake lodge
I traveled from Denver to Moran, WY the day before to not only stay at the Jackson Lake Lodge for a night, but to also arrive in Yellowstone at the South entrance as well.
Built in the 1950s as a high-end mountain getaway, celebrities and foreign dignitaries, alike, have stayed there, with plenty of photos and memorabilia lining the walls of the main building to prove it.
However, what sold me on staying there for one night was The Mural Room. Hands down, this five-star restaurant (as well as it's surrounding terraces) has the best unencumbered view of the Grand Tetons, as well as sunset!
TIP: Book your room or cabin 4-6 months in advance as they book up quickly. As for the Mural Room reservation, the minute your date opens up (2-3 months in advance), call them to request a table at the window).
other options:
East Entrance
(to exit the park) - Cody, WY
Irma Inn
While there are many charming hotels in Cody, I chose the Irma Inn because it’s the most historic and iconic hotel in downtown Cody. I love history, and the fact that Buffalo Bill not only built this hotel, but also hosted a whole range of famous (infamous in some cases) people, made this even more appealing. To make this adventurous, I chose the historic section of the hotel, which meant famous figures actually stayed in those rooms, and in some cases, still haunt them. (Note: Room #20 and #35 are the MOST haunted, with rarely a guest actually sleeping in #35.)
Some notes on Irma Inn:
It's historic, not modern. This means the inn's floors are dark, old, and decorated with furniture and art from the 1880s - the wallpaper, lighting, and all other features are restored to take on that era feel as well.
There are no elevators - This means you're hauling luggage up creaky flights of stairs.
They do have free wi-fi and free parking.
There is a restaurant and bar (the bar itself is original) in the hotel, along with a large porch with live music.
It's relatively inexpensive at about $160 a night for a historic room (and a lot less for a more modern one).
other options:
Where to Dine & Drink
Moran/Jackson, WY
Given that it is mostly park land, your best bet for breakfast and dinner is to eat at a resort or to have food with you.
Leek's Marina & Pizzeria (Signal mountain lodge)
Serving pizza and microbrews.
Mural Room (Jackson Lake Lodge)
As I mentioned above in the “Where to Stay” section, the Mural room is an absolute delight of a restaurant, both because of the food and the view above. TIP: Book as soon as your date becomes available to book - usually 2-3 months.
Pioneer Grill (Jackson Lake Lodge)
This 1950s-esque diner is absolutely wonderful for breakfast. They serve very large portions, so if you’re not a big eater, definitely share!
THE RESTAURANT & BAR AT TURPIN MEADOW RANCH
Per their site, “With its cozy fireplace, handcrafted wooden furnishings, and Teton views our restaurant provides a serene and enchanting ambiance that sets the stage for an unforgettable meal. Our lodge dining room offers breakfast, lunch and dinner each day.”
Trapper Grill (signal mountain lodge)
Warm, wood-hued spot for hearty, family-friendly comfort fare plus breakfast & local draft beers.
Yellowstone
Hanks Chop House (West Yellowstone)
Opened on July 14th 2022, the restaurant was formerly a auto mechanic shop before the new owners remodeled the building and named it after their son, Hank. They pride themselves on keeping it local, serving USDA Prime meat, fresh house made pastas, hand-pattied 1/2 pound burgers, and homemade desserts, as well as over a dozen Montana draft beers.
Old Faithful general store
This is a GREAT place to pick up picnic items, including gluten-free sandwiches! NOTE: This is NOT the grill - that part isn’t recommended. TIP: Stop for gas there as well as there are virtually no other gas stations in the park.
Running Bear Pancake House (West Yellowstone)
A brown bear perches in the rafters of this low-key spot serving up classic breakfasts & lunches.
The Buffalo Bar (West Yellowstone)
Homey tavern with rustic, western decor & video slot machines serving burgers, beer & bar bites.
Cody, WY
8th Street at The Ivy
Contemporary hotel restaurant offering American fare, plus a cozy bar & a patio.
Fat Racks BBQ
An array of smoked meats & classic comfort sides out of a bright red food truck with picnic tables.
Hungry Bear Restaurant
Down-home outpost serving breakfast classics, pizza, pasta, salads, subs, burgers & hot dogs.
Our Place
Quirky, old-school joint specializing in classic American breakfasts & nostalgic decor.
Rawhide Coffee Co.
There are many places to go for breakfast in downtown Cody however, I was looking for something quick, since I had about a six-hour drive ahead of me. I stopped into Rawhide Coffee Co. for some gluten-free oatmeal, pastries, and coffee, before heading onto my next destination. I strongly recommend going here, even if it's just for freshly brewed coffee - it was excellent!
THE BLANCA TATANKA
Serving small plate and cocktails with live music.
The Cody Cattle Company
Sizable, vibrant locale featuring a homestyle American buffet & a live country-western music show.
Wy Thai
Serving thai food.
Wyoming Rib and Chop House
If you're a meat eater, there's no way you can pass through Wyoming and not have a steak! We headed into Wyoming Rib and Chop House for a steak and a loaded Idaho Baked Potato - both of which I highly recommend!
Things to Do
Yellowstone
Bison
One of the most amazing parts of Yellowstone is the free-roaming wildlife. Moose, coyotes, bears, and bison are all aplenty - especially during the morning and early evening hours. NOTE: Do not approach the wildlife for a pic - most cameras do a great job taking a pic from a safe distance!
Grand Prismatic springs
The Grand Prismatic Spring in Yellowstone National Park is the largest hot spring in the United States, and the third largest in the world, after Frying Pan Lake in New Zealand, and Boiling Lake in Dominica. It was first noted by geologists, working in the Hayden Geological Survey of 1871, and named by them for its striking coloration. Its colors match most of those seen in the rainbow.
Lewis Lake
The Lewis River is the lake's primary inflow, draining south from Shoshone Lake. The primary outflow of Lewis Lake is also the Lewis River, continuing south to join the Snake River near the southern boundary of Yellowstone National Park. There are several hot springs emptying into the lake on its northwestern shore and two more hot springs at the lake's southern end where it empties into the Lewis River.
Like the river, Lewis Lake is named for Meriweather Lewis, commander of the Lewis and Clark Expedition.
Old Faithful
In the afternoon of September 18, 1870, the members of the Washburn-Langford-Doane Expedition traveled down the Firehole River, from the Kepler Cascades, and entered the Upper Geyser Basin. The first geyser that they saw was Old Faithful. Nathaniel P. Langford wrote in his 1871 Scribner's account of the expedition:
It spouted at regular intervals nine times during our stay, the columns of boiling water being thrown from ninety to one hundred and twenty-five feet at each discharge, which lasted from fifteen to twenty minutes. We gave it the name of "Old Faithful."
— Nathaniel P. Langford, 1871
Eruptions can shoot 3,700 to 8,400 US gallons of boiling water to a height of 106 to 185 feet (145 ft. being the average), lasting from 1+1⁄2 to 5 minutes (intervals between eruptions can range from 60 to 110 minutes). More than 1,000,000 eruptions have been recorded.
Paint Pots
The Fountain Paint Pot is named for the reds, yellows and browns of the mud in this area. The differing colors are derived from different oxidation states of the iron in the mud. As with all hot springs, the heat in the caldera forces pressurized water up through the ground, which is expelled there - the rising gasses causing the bubbling action.
NOTE: It’s a short boardwalk trail from the parking lot, on the main road, through Lower Geyser Basin. Off-trail travel in this area is prohibited due to hazardous conditions.
Take lots of pictures
One of the great things about Yellowstone is they understand tourists love to pull out their cameras! There are a lot of wide pull-off areas to park and take pics safely, without blocking traffic.
Waterfalls
Wyoming (as well as its surrounding states) has seen a significant amount of overall precipitation, resulting in some of the most spectacular (and ferocious) falls I've ever seen.
Lower Falls
Hiking the 600 ft. to the Lower Falls is an absolute MUST. While it’s steep on the way down and very strenuous on the way back up, it’s worth it. TIP: Bring a lot of water in the summer!
Yellowstone Lake
Yellowstone Lake is the largest body of water in Yellowstone National Park. The lake is 7,732 ft. above sea level and covers 136 square miles with 110 miles of shoreline. While the average depth of the lake is 139 ft., its greatest depth is at least 394 ft. It’s also the largest freshwater lake above 7,000 ft. in North America.
In winter, ice nearly 3 ft. thick covers much of the lake except where shallow water covers hot springs. The lake freezes over by early December and can remain frozen until late May or early June.
Yellowstone River
The Yellowstone River is a tributary of the Missouri River, approximately 692 miles long. Considered the principal tributary of upper Missouri, via its own tributaries, it drains an area with headwaters across the mountains and high plains of southern Montana and northern Wyoming, and stretching east from the Rocky Mountains in the vicinity of Yellowstone National Park.
Cody, WY
Buffalo Bill Center of the West
An affiliate of the Smithsonian Institution, The Buffalo Bill Center of the West is an enormous structure comprised of 5 museums.
Learn all about the life of Buffalo Bill.
Learn the history of thousands of guns throughout the ages.
Get a hands-on look at the natural wonders of Yellowstone.
Learn more about the Native American civilizations that called the area “home”.
See one of the largest curated collections of Western art anywhere in the world.
City of Cody Mini Golf
For $5 a person, you can learn a little bit more about the City of Cody, while playing 18 holes of the most difficult mini golf holes I've ever played. It's a great early evening activity.
Cody Firearms Experience
Choose from a wide range of firearms to use in their indoor firing range, from flintlocks to modern-day guns.. One of the most popular firearms is an 1862 Gatling Gun, and yes, you have the opportunity to shoot it.
They also educate visitors about American gun history, gun safety, and in-depth information about each firearm themselves.
Cody Nite Rodeo
Not only can you watch a nighttime rodeo, you can also get a rope tying lesson, ride a mechanical bull, and even get your picture taken with the famous Mongo the Bull!
Irma Hotel Gun Fight
The Irma Hotel is the place to be at 6 p.m. on summer evenings in Cody. This is where you’ll be treated to the spectacular and supremely entertaining Cody Wild Bunch as they engage in Western skits that always end up in a gunfight (often prompted by a damsel in distress).
Wild Mustangs
Located about 25 minutes east of Cody, this landscape is a vast, high-desert environment marked on the edges by rocky badlands and views of the Bighorn and Absaroka Mountain Ranges in the distance. You will pass through expansive sage fields, wind along small springs and creeks, set up viewing stations at ancient watering holes, and traverse rolling grasslands where wildlife, such as pronghorn, coyotes, hawks, eagles, and songbirds are all present. The main goal of your trip is to find and observe a unique wild mustang herd, with horses ranging in color, size, and personality who form fascinating family units, living off the land, in their wild and untouched state.
Travel Tips
Rent a car
There is really not other way to explore Yellowstone than in a car. You can certainly go in a tour group, but it’s far more enjoyable to take your time.
Stay near the SoutH entrance to enter the park
In doing my research, the south entrance was most appealing, not just because it was only 1 1/2 hours away from where I was staying, but also because you drive through the Grand Tetons as well, marking it as the prettiest drive (see short video clip below).
TIP: Take the loop clockwise (starting at 7am), from the south entrance. You will always have a parking space with far less crowds!
exit at the east entrance to exit the park
The drive through Yellowstone (with stops) and to Cody, Wyoming was about 10 hours in total, which allowed me time to settle into my hotel room at The Irma Inn and explore downtown Cody for an evening. It’s a NOT TO MISS part of Wyoming, due to its Wild West history, which you will see in the “History Summary” in the final section of this post.
what to pack
Bug spray
Sunscreen
Hiking boots
Comfortable, breathable clothing - bring layers for the cool mornings
A hat
A backpack with plenty of water
Backup battery charger
Bear spray
Well-sealed food - NOTE: When leaving food and water in the car, make sure to lock all doors and completely close all windows (including sun roofs) - the wildlife is known to find a way in!
National Geographic Guide to National Parks - the maps were invaluable!
A History Summary
Jackson, WY
Pre-1800s - Jackson was originally populated by Native American tribes including the Shoshoni, Crow, Blackfeet, Bannock, and Gros Ventre.
Early 1800s - The locality became a prime area for trappers and mountain men to travel through, one example being John Colter. After being discharged from the Corps of Discovery of the Lewis and Clark Expedition in 1806 at Fort Mandan, in present-day North Dakota, Colter visited Jackson Hole during the winter of 1807/1808. David Edward Jackson gave his name to the valley after a winter spent on the shores of Jackson Lake.
1871 - 1872 - As part of the Hayden Expedition, William Henry Jackson took the first photographs of the Teton Range and Yellowstone. His photographs, along with the sketches by Tom Moran, were important evidence to convince Congress to protect Yellowstone National Park, which became the first National Park in 1872.
1894 - The town of Jackson was named.
1914 - The town of Jackson was incorporated. Some of the early buildings remain and can be found throughout the area of the Town Square.
1920 - The town of Jackson elected an all-woman city government.
1929 - Grand Teton National Park was created.
1930 - Snow King Resort was established.
1937 - The first ski rope tow was built at Teton Pass.
1950 - Grand Teton National Park was greatly expanded after John D. Rockefeller Jr. purchased and then donated over 30,000 acres.
2009 - The town of Jackson was designated as a Preserve America Community.
Yellowstone
11,000 years ago - Native Americans began to hunt and fish in the region
1805 - When the Lewis and Clark Expedition entered present-day Montana, they encountered the Nez Perce, Crow, and Shoshone tribes who described to them the Yellowstone region to the south, but they chose not to investigate.
1806 - John Colter left the expedition group to join a group of fur trappers.
1807 - 1808 - After splitting up with the other trappers a year later, Colter passed through a portion of what later became the park, during the winter of 1807–1808. He observed at least one geothermal area in the northeastern section of the park, near Tower Fall.
1809 - After surviving wounds he suffered in a battle with members of the Crow and Blackfoot tribes, Colter described a place of "fire and brimstone" that most people dismissed as delirium.
1856 - Mountain man, Jim Bridger, reported observing boiling springs, spouting water, and a mountain of glass and yellow rock. These reports were largely ignored because Bridger was a known "spinner of yarns".
1859-1860 - A U.S. Army Surveyor named, Captain William F. Raynolds, embarked on a two-year survey of the southern central Rockies. After wintering in Wyoming, in May 1860, he and his party attempted to cross the Continental Divide over Two Ocean Plateau from the Wind River drainage in northwest Wyoming. Heavy spring snows prevented their passage.
1869 - The first detailed expedition to the Yellowstone area was the Cook–Folsom–Peterson Expedition, which consisted of three privately funded explorers. The Folsom party followed the Yellowstone River to Yellowstone Lake.
1870 - 1871 - A Montana writer and lawyer, Cornelius Hedges, who had been a member of the Washburn expedition, proposed that the region should be set aside and protected as a national park. Others made similar suggestions during that time.
1872 - President Ulysses S. Grant signed The Act of Dedication law that created Yellowstone National Park.
1880 - Harry Yount was appointed as a gamekeeper to control poaching and vandalism in the park. He was the first park ranger and a peak was named after him.
1883 - The Northern Pacific Railroad built a train station in Livingston, Montana, as a gateway terminus to connect to the northern entrance area.
1886 - Ongoing poaching and destruction of natural resources continued until the U.S. Army arrived at Mammoth Hot Springs and built Camp Sheridan. Over the next 22 years, as the army constructed permanent structures, Camp Sheridan was renamed Fort Yellowstone.
1915 - 1,000 automobiles were permitted a year.
1916 - National Park Service (NPS) Created.
1918 - The Army turned control of the park over to the NPS.
1933 - 1942 - The Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC), a New Deal relief agency for young men, played a major role in developing Yellowstone facilities.
WWII - Visitation and staffing sharply declined - facilities fell into disrepair.
1959 - The Hebgen Lake earthquake, just west of Yellowstone, at Hebgen Lake damaged roads and some structures in the park. In the northwest section of the park, new geysers were found and many existing hot springs became turbid. It was the most powerful earthquake to hit the region in recorded history.
1966 - Park visitation increased dramatically in the 1950s, creating a need for better and more facilities. Plans were completed for these in 1966.
1978 - Named to the UNESCO World Heritage Site list
1988 - The wildfires during the summer of 1988 were the largest in the history of the park. Approximately 793,880 acres or 36% of the parkland was impacted by the fires.
cody, WY
1868 - The Bighorn Basin was restricted from white settlement by treaties with the Indians.
1894 - William F. “Buffalo Bill” Cody was visiting Sheridan, WY when his son-in-law, Horace Boal, took him to the top of the Bighorn Mountains for a view to the west, over the Bighorn Basin. On learning that a group of Sheridan businessmen were already interested in founding a town there, Cody eagerly joined the effort.
1895 - Cody, George T. Beck, Cody’s Wild West show partner Nate Salsbury, Harry Gerrans, Bronson Rumsey, Horace Alger, and George Bleistein founded the Shoshone Land and Irrigation Company. The canal was also dug the same year.
1896 - Site of the present town was laid out.
1899 - The “Cody Enterprise” started operating and is still publishing today under a masthead that honors Buffalo Bill as its founder.
1900 - Cody had a population of 300.
1901 - The railroad line to Cody opened and the town was incorporated.
1902 - The Irma Hotel, named for Buffalo Bill’s daughter, opened November 18, 1902, and boasted that it was the most modern hotel in the Rockies. It was also the year funds were appropriated for a dam.
1909 - 1911 - Cody was made the county seat and became fully operational.
1917 - Buffalo Bill Cody died Jan. 10, 1917 and within six weeks, five prominent town citizens formed the “Buffalo Bill Memorial Association”.
1920 - The Cody Stampede started on July 4, 1920 and is still an annual tradition.
1924 - The statue of Buffalo Bill Cody was dedicated on July 4, 1924.
1927 -Buffalo Bill Museum opened July 4, 1927.
1938 -Husky Oil Company headquarters moved to Cody and a refinery was built near the Cody railroad depot north of town.
1946 - To commemorate Buffalo Bill’s 100th birthday, the dam and the reservoir were renamed after him.
1982 - Husky was sold, and the refinery finally closed in the mid-1980s. Marathon Oil, meanwhile, bought the Husky headquarters building in Cody, and Marathon remains the primary oil company in the area.
2019 - Kanye West bought a ranch in Cody, though some say it’s abandoned.
Today - There are 9,500 residents in Cody.
